I have to erect some shelves: 22 inches wide, supported at the ends by
heavy-duty bookcase-type uprights and brackets. This is to hold fairly
weighty audio-video equipment.
Given an equal thickness (18mm? 20mm? More?) and a choice between MDF,
plywood, veneered chipboard, solid timber or something else, would any
particular material be preferable? 22 inches isn't much of a span, is it?
And appearance isn't really a factor.
Thanks for the speedy replies. I'd like to use solid wood, though the size
might be a problem: I don't at the moment have the facilities to glue and
clamp narrower pieces together to get the necessary depth, not to mention
the difficulty of finding good enough straight and true timber to begin
Most of the gear is the standard 19" wide so at least the weight will be
concentrated close to the supported ends of the shelves rather than nearer
On Tuesday, 25 April 2017 12:28:50 UTC+1, Bert Coules wrote:
You could use pineboard or not glue the pieces together. You can also glue without clamping if the wood is straight, you pressit together a little with household objects and aren't looking for consistently good glue strength.
I have used solid wood for shelves intended to carry significant
weight, but as you say, you have to glue narrower pieces together as
you can't easily get the depth on single planks these days (well, I
couldn't, locally). Can't remember how I clamped them but it might
have simply been flat on the top of the Workmate, although how I did
the ends, I don't recall (they were typically 6ft long pieces), but
22" should be easy.
30mm kitchen laminate offcuts are something else I use, cut to size as
required, for garage shelving.
Pretty sure you can buy ready made shelving made out of real wood strips
glued together. Find the most economical length that can be cut to what
The other way would be (as you said) real engineered wood flooring, glued
back to back and clamped until dry. An end of range product could be very
*Horn broken. - Watch for finger.
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
You'd be amazed how strong a shelf can be made out
of a piece of cheapo sapele flush panel door. The
type that could be bought for about a tenner, or free
from most skips where a refurb is being done.
Cut to length and width and then use a planer to get
a bit of nominally 2X2 down to the thickness of the
egg box core.
Carefully push back the eggy box material, breaking the
glue, sand down the exposed glue ridges and glue in the
new bits of planed edge timber.
Then you only need to pin or glue some bits of sepele
strip to the exposed edges to match the top and
Or use bits of kitchen work top for a really strong
Or a piece of scaffolding board.
Coincidentally my garden is currently home to a good number of scaffolding
boards, and indeed scaffolding, awaiting removal. The idea did occur to me,
but I suspect that the scaffolding company have a pretty accurate record of
just what they're expecting to collect.
That's interesting about the doors though; thanks.
I'm sitting in front of office shelving made from 18mm Alder veneered
blockboard. No noticeable sagging over a span of 1m and fully loaded
with books and files etc.
The front edge is trimmed with machined hardwood run through the
workshop spindle moulder but I think you can buy similar stuff from the
Blockboard will always be more rigid than an equivalent thickness of
LOL! You and me both. There are so many composite boards around
(blockboard, chipboard, MDF, OSB, donkeyboard, fibreboard, laminate
etc, plus all the manufacturers specific product names) I get
confused. Plywood and hardboard, I know, but that's about my limit;
beyond that, I have to look it up...
I've got the top from an old 60's desk that is what I'd call blockboard,
it's about 2x1" strips of solid wood, glued up lengthways, with a single
ply of plywood on top and bottom, and in my case, a laminate sheet on
top of that ... it makes an excellent portable workbench on top of a
couple of trestle legs.
Ha! I have been using a similar set up for cutting insulation and
plasterboard. Fine until you pull a heavy sheet lengthways and the
*spreaders* close up and become vertical struts:-(
Mine now have temporary braces nailed on!
I guess you need to look beyond the sheds for a supplier: builders
The plethora of cheaper alternatives has pushed it off the shelves.
Assembled from lengths of softwood glued together and with a veneered
finish it must require more labour than particle or stirling board to
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.