You may remember I was asking about making bookcases. I did look at the Ikea ones as you suggested but one of the gaps I want to fit a bookcase in is 60cm wide. The ikea ones come in 40cm and 80cm sizes. I've had a quick look around and 40 and 80 seem to be the standard sizes: is there a reason for this? They just seemed odd numbers: I would have expected either 50 and 100 if using a metric system or 30, 60, 90 if based on feet.
So I am wondering about making a 60cm wide bookcase. I got told off for suggesting I used melamine faced chip, so how about 6x1 PSE?
I could just butt it all together and use screws or plastic blocks but I'd like to learn to do it properly. Last time dadoes or rebates were suggested. I wonder whether "rabbets" is just a mispronunciation of rebates?
I suppose the easiest way is to use a router to make a square (in cross section) rebate. How do I get the width of the rebate to match the width of the wood?
What is the finished width of 1" PSE? Would it be about 20mm? I see there are 20mm straight router bits so that seems straightforward. Is it?
If the wood was say 23mm, do you search for someone selling a 23mm bit or do you thickness the wood down to the next standard size, i.e. 20mm? I would think you would try and keep the wood as thick as possible to give maximum strength and minimum sag but if no 23mm bit exists, I don't see there is any choice.
I suppose you could try to do two passes (one offset by 3mm) with a 20mm bit to make a 23mm rebate but it sounds like it would be very tricky to do accurately. Is the thickness option better?
For a beginner, would you recommend I route "straight through" rather than a blind stop before I reach the front edge of the book case?
The disadvantage with this is that I would still need to find a way of holding it all together. Would gluing the shelves and nailing the back be sufficient?
It was suggested that if I cut dovetail rebates, the shelves would hold themselves in place and hold the bookcase together. Very clever. I am confused about which dovetail bit to use though. There seem to be so many variations on width and angle. Which do I choose?
I imagine I try to get the width of the dovetail as close to the width of the shelf, so I look for one with a diameter of 20mm. If I use 6x1 for the sides, I would only be routing to a depth of say 7mm (one third), so do I look for a short length? What angle do I choose?
Routing the sides seems otherwise straightforward but I then need to do the shelf edges to match. Do I use a router table for this?
Thanks in advance, Stephen.