What saw blade should I use to cut a kitchen worktop

The message from "Keith D" contains these words:

Assuming that the cut edge is going to be concealed, then the finish isn't going to be vital, so the blade supplied should be fine assuming it's TCT, which most are.

Cut from the reverse so the blade is rising into the laminate and cuts cleanly instead of pulling away from it and flaking bits off.

Clamp a batten to the top - or even screw it to the reverse to run the saw along and take it slowly.

Paint the exposed edge with PVA.

A lot depends on how much of the top surface you're planning to cover up with trim strips etc. - 'cos a cheapo blade will sure as hell chip the surface.

For a half-way decent job, you need a fine TCT blade. If using a hand-held saw, turn the worktop upside down so as to cut from the bottom. Set the depth of cut only just a little more than the worktop thickness. Clamp a straight piece of timber across the worktop, at a suitable distance from where the cut has to be, to act as a guide. Start cutting from the front (rolled) edge of the worktop.

Some people also advocate taping the top surface over the cut line so that the saw cuts through the tape. This is claimed to reduce chipping - but I find that if you do everything else which I have described, it won't chip anyway.

I did this with a Skilsaw ,incl taping the area to be cut, and it worked very well.This was on an end that was to be showing and once the matching trim piece was glued on it and trimmed/sanded down looked excellent .It was an MFI glossy worktop.

Stuart

I use a hand saw, a panel saw, cutting from the top. I just mark the line with a pencil and saw through in a relaxed, nice and easy manner. It saves wondering what saw to buy next and also saves buying it.

Use a blade with lots of teeth, and make a practice cut first. The cheap TCT blades I got from a discount supermarket work well, 64T?.

None of them.

A router and guide is a much more suitable tool to use.

Nah! Angle Grinder.

The message from "The Medway Handyman" contains these words:

And what's wrong with an adze, may I ask? Awkward to get a good swing to cut across something, I'll grant you, but if you mount it on edge...

Power tools have there place but if a hand tool does the job and infrequently, then that's my choice. You're less likely to fu big time too. The downside is it does take some practice to cut straight.

OP: Get yourself a fine toothed 18" or so hardpoint hand saw, JetCut et al. Indispensable.

-- Mike W

The message from "VisionSet" contains these words:

But avoid like the plague Poundland cheapies. I've just been helping my neighbour with her front fence and 'cos it was in front of me tried her poundsaw. Crap.

Did it cut 'round corners, not cut at all, break?

The message from Chris Bacon contains these words:

It was new, but felt blunt, was so ill-tempered that it was no good for vigourour sawing - the sort that goes through a 75mm square fence post in ten seconds with a proper saw was impossible. The saw just folded up.

Tsk, such barbarism! The only true way to cut a worktop professionally is to score it neatly along the top with a stanley knife and straight edge, place it over your knee, and break it neatly in two.

The message from Chris Cowley contains these words:

But my knee has a cup of coffee balanced on it.

Much easier to get it precision laser cut with a Stern Glare from Mary

Owain