What protection do crimped connections need (under floor)

no protection needed if there are no bare bits. heatshrink more than enough

I think I'd be a bit worried exactly why a wire is damaged and are any other wires going the same route also damaged but still have continuity, myself. Brian

If the joint is accessible in terms of being under floor boards etc, a junction box would be fine. Inaccessible (like plastered over) needs to be crimped. Heatshrink over the lot will bring it back to nearer a non jointed cable.

Personally, I'd use a JB if you can. Crimps vary a lot by make as do the crimping tools. A perfect crimp may be better - but most are nothing like perfect.

OP here, yes, but in a sense that's a separate issue. I have bypassed the existing broken wire and want to make my additions and changes safe, hence my question about what extra protection (if any) insulated crimps need.

The wire with a break was a 'single and earth' red cable, probably 1sq mm so it is fairly fragile stuff. The other cable in the same buried conduit is normal T&E and is functioning OK. The broken single and earth was feeding an outside PIR light from a switch so that it could be turned off. That's not really necessary, in fact was a bit of a nuisance as it often got turned off when it was wanted to work. So I have bypassed the broken wire and connected it directly to a 6 amp lighting circuit.

I will label the broken wire as such (and the other wiring I have identified in this process).

Another good option, assuming you have the kit and know how to use it, is soldering followed by heat shrink or even a good wrap with pvc insulating tape. And that's OK for inaccessible joints too, of course.

Actually, those little "cooks" blowtorches are good for this, used with a bit of multicore solder.

I would disagree - pop it in any box - eg single gang box with blanking plate.

What are you protecting it from - that needs to be so much stronger than the original TW&E?

In article , Dave Plowman (News) scribeth thus

Beg to differ Dave decent ratchet crimping pliers almost weld the wires together!..

I did say decent crimps made with a decent tool. There are lots on sale that are neither.

It's interesting to do a test crimp with one of those pre-insulated crimps then carefully cut off the insulation to see the actual crimp. Often not a pretty sight.

Of course in many cases they will never actually carry the full current anyway.

But if it's somewhere a JB is allowed, I'd use that.

If they are correctly adjusted in the first place. Having a ratchet only ensures that the operator squeezes them enough to release the ratchet and that may be too much or not enough.

All the good ones have an adjuster and you need to know when to use it.

Then use a maintenance free JB.

I reckon that good advice when someone asks about crimping.

Heatshrink would be fine

Wago connectors and wago box would be another maintenance free option.

That was my temporary fix to see if I had understood the wiring right. I just wanted to make things less bulky and 'wasteful'. A Wago box for just two connections seemed messy somehow.

I have now crimped and heatshrunk the connections so they are just slightly fat bits of wire.

And in the future, you'll want to add something. And remember that would be a good place to pickup the circuit. As you've already lifted the floorboards once, so will be easy again. And wish you'd used a JB. ;-)

There's *already* a junction box there, that's where I got the replacement live feed from. Another JB seemed overkill. :-)