What adhesive for mounting a large map?

But make sure when pasting the board it doesn't lead to discolouration of the paste - or else it will bleed through to the surface of the map.

You may have to seal the board first

You may have to consider a stronger paste the wall type paste and just size and only paste the board rather than the paper map. I'm now a fan of pasting the wall and then putting up dry paper - much easier than trying to hang a long strip of pasted paper, especially on a ceiling

Some spray mounts are only suitable for non-pourous paper such as photographic paper.

Try any spray mount glue on some scrap paper first

As you intend to make a frame, presumably cutting the backing to size should present no problem either.

Assuming for the sake of simplicity that the backing is 42x60 That gives two inches extra on the left hand side,

Using 4 inch low tack masking tape mount the map onto the backing aligning it with the right hand side thus giving a two inch "hinge" on the left hand side. With the map thus "fixed" in position roll it right back to the left clear of the backing. In the past the adhesive I would ave used for this would have been Cow Gum rubber solution. Basically the rubber solution was applied to the backing a strip at a time and the map unrolled onto this and smoothed out as the unrolling progressed. Just so long as the map is satisfactorily smoothed out, it isn't even necessary to complete the operation in one go. Rubber solution is simply worked into the gap between the backing and the rolled up map and then applied to the backing as before.

This is one coat rubber solution application which is re-postionable and doesn't dry out immediately. Two coat application where both surfaces are coated and allowed to dry as in innertube patches is different,

This usually lasts for around ten years before drying out, losing adhesion and leaving a yellow residue. In which case the procedure is repeated in this case wrapping the masking tape around the left hand side of the now trimmed backing.

Rubber solution on impervious surfaces can be simply rubbed off when dry. This is also possible on thick gloss paper. Otherwise lighter fuel is used. They don't make Cow Gum any more but there's a German equivalent Maribu which costs £23.50 post free for a 500gram tin on Amazon

...

Mine was on Hardboard. No need to prime that or MDF or plywood IMHO.

You haven't done this yourself at all, ever have you?

I bet you haven't even painted MDF with water based emulsion paint or acrylic undercoat.

Curiously enough the manufacturers of MDF have decided in their infinite wisdom not to make it out of substances that will leach staining on application of any water based coat such as is now mandatory on all domestic paint products...

...how remarkably stupid of them.

Exactly.

There are people who pontificate from an armchair, and there are people who have done it

I've got maps going back 25 years wallpaper pasted onto IIRC hardboard backing and have used backing paper on MDF and/or painted it with emulsion

Spray mount is for wimps and snoflakes. Real men boil cornflour and water and use that :-)

Yep, I once printed out a large poster on on multiple sheets of A4 and then glued it to a large piece of hardboard. It was to advertise an event that I was partly responsible for organising. It was glued to the shiny side of hardboard with wall paper paste. The glue and paper became discoloured but for my application it didn't really matter.

Thanks Michael, making a tape hinge at one edge is a good idea. I think the choice is either your hinge or Martin's suggestion of getting the diagonal correct and then working out from there. Once stuck, Bill's suggestion of using a clear matt varnish is also better than trying to get a plastic film to stay in place across such a large area. Regarding adhesive: I'm now tempted to use dilute "builders" PVA which I can roll onto the backing, but I'll investigate Maribu first.

Hygroscopic !

Blue Tack. Don't bother with a backing.

Blue tack oils come through after less than a year. My wall planner uses that method and shows it.

I prefer to use a dry mount photo adhesive when mounting stuff on display boards since it avoids problems with wet strength and stretch marks. Handling large sheets and prints is hard enough already.

Inkjet prints certainly won't tollerate water based adhesives. (although they don't last more than a couple of years without fading unless under glass or an anti-UV spray lacquer top coat applied)

My student days are long past ;-)

I usually stick a rectangle of Sellotape on the back. Then use Blu-Tack.

PVA is water based. Whether this has potential to create problems is another matter*. I bought a 500g tin of Marabu years back for an architectural type model made of polyboard and can confirm that 500g, the tin is 4.5in heigh with a 4in circumference, will do the job. The masking tape hinge used the materials at hand. A similar set up could probably be arranged with a piece of thick card and g-clamps fixed to one end of the pre-trimmed backing. So that all the right hand side could be unrolled and stuck down and then the card and g-clamps removed and that strip stuck down last.

• Rubber solution being spirit based won't effect paper. It does however give off vapours with vaguely hallucinogenic properties which may have been partially responsible for its demise.and should ideally be used in a well ventilated environment.

michael adams

...

ROFL!