Usign an electrical socket behind a kitchen cabinet

Feb 20, 2017 37 Replies

Many thanks to everyone for the replies and comments; how pleasant to find such unanimity of opinion here. I shall go ahead with the plan.

I don't think I kept a note of the site but if I find it again I'll post the details here.

A pal had a new kitchen installed - cost a fortune from one of those designer kitchen shops who arranged the entire job. Including new electrics. He knocked on my door one Sunday morning asking for help - as they couldn't make the toast.

Wasn't busy, so had a look. None of the sockets in the kitchen had the terminals tightened. Luckily, only signs of fried wire in a couple of them at either end of the ring. So got it sorted that day.

(He was already in dispute with the company he bought it from)

Also, if I understand correctly and you intend to have an access hole cut in the cabinet back panel that will effectively ventilate the "plug".

With a bad connection and 13 amps current, you can "cook" the internals of a socket or a plug. Unless you have inflammable materials directly in contact with the outside surface, there's no real chance of fire. Provided the plug top is visible (ideally, white rather than black) you should spot overheating. Not that this is likely for a fridge freezer.

Worth noting that a FF itself will significantly warm its cubby space if there is no ventilation and its not designed to be a "built in" type.

Bert Coules used his keyboard to write :

We have a socket behind one of the drawer sets, with phone outlet. That serves for an emergency wired phone, kept in one of the drawers. Behind the cooker a twin outlet for cooker and hob. Next to that is another hidden socket for the fridge freezer unit.

Hmm well as long as you can access the socket if you need to then no. a groove in the chipboard is best for the lead but are you going to have room to get the plug out past the cabinet without dismantling the unit? Fuses do blow and fridges do die.

Brian

Especially for when a self-immolating Beko is involved.

I've had a couple of Beko appliances and never had any bother with them at all.

The access hole needs to be big enough to fit a plug through. Expecting to remove the fridge through it seems rather over-ambitious.

What the heck went wrong here?!?!?

Bert did not mark his post as OT?

Whilst I respect the logic of the current rules, all of my kitchen appliances apart from the cooker run off the "downstairs ring". So I can definitely kill the two fridge freezers, the washing machine, the macerator, and the dishwasher (plus all of the above worktop sockets) by killing this ring. So I feel quite relaxed about the fact that most of the appliance sockets are either below the worktop, or not particularly accessible.

A foolish slip. I'll know better next time.

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