TV expertise

The menu is all accessed through the power on button - press and hold But it doesnt do much Does this help?

The print quality of the old films which are broadcast on the likes of TPTV can vary widely. Some are pin sharp, others fuzzy some light, some dark, some with colours darkened or bleached out. There will originally have been 100's of these prints distributed to cinemas when the films were first released, and its often pot luck which ones survived for subsequent transfer to VHS or DVD and then broadcast.

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Umm. I guess if the *auto brightness control* is operating, the set won't let you adjust it manually.

I'll have another look this evening. I have the same film recorded on a Topfield box and don't remember any brightness issues when last watched.

Ta.

In message <RMmcneFjjPltOIj4nZ2dnZfqn snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk>, billy bookcase snipped-for-privacy@anon.com writes

Ok. Does this mean the current version is not the same as the one I recorded years ago on my Topfield box?

As you surmise, recorded yesterday on TPTV.

Quite possibly.

There's a film "Defence of the Realm". I bought a DVD online which turned out to be "ITV Classics" or similar. The print quality was absolute rubbish. Even worse that a VHS I'd recorded years ago. Needless to say whenever it shows up on TPTV, the quality is pin sharp ( well a lot better at least). So from a better print.

With a few exceptions TPTV don't seem to process the films in any way. Its just a straight transfer, except they do add subtitles to some. I bought one of their DVD collections for the sake of one particular film, which is just as well. As the quality of most of the rest was very poor. However as they were "rarities" that's probably considered better than nothing by real enthusiasts.

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According to this on the second row of the remote there's a button with a gear wheel which usually accesses settings

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In message <HlSdnfd7tpfuKYj4nZ2dnZfqn snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk>, billy bookcase snipped-for-privacy@anon.com writes

Yes. I have access to the settings menu. Nothing on my button set will change the display brightness setting of 50%:-(

Oh well. I have seen them all before!

I wonder if it was broadcast like that? Incidentally on the tag line of this post, could i point out that when the blind lead the blind, when second blind person feels the first fall, he simply lets go and calls 999. Brian

The effect described was due to bad setting of the dc level of black. In the old days of black and white tvs, most sets used AC coupling to drive the tube which made the level vary as the set showed a kind of constantly variable average of the whole thing. This was done to stop over bright bits in a scene from putting sudden load on the eht, and making the tube defocus or balloon or both. I found this out when a modification for these TVs was published in Practical Television for a DC restorer. It also needed a modification to the eht regulation circuits, but the pictures, though black and white could be superb assume the contrast was set sensibly. When colour came along the DC levels had to be maintained to keep the colours right, but I remember noticing at the time that many older films and TV shows had you up and down adjusting contrast and brightness on every scene. It could well be in today's digital intelligent world that it could easily be possible for the auto tweaking that goes into the software, might make things worse by assuming a black level from an unseen part of the original media, and if its different on one scene or another, compensate when it should not be required. People tell me some of the old Avengers series suffer from this kind of problem and also they use over aggressive noise gates on the audio making it sound rather like playing a non dolby cassette with dolby C turned on. Give me the crackles and weird noises any day, since all too often it interferes with hearing background sounds. Brian

And dies of the cold 24hours later.

"First in a forest, last in a bog", if you want to travel cross country.

When you record from an analog source and try to make a digital, the analog signal is 1 volt in amplitude, and it has a nominal range, and it has signals "blacker than black" used for sync tips.

----- \ \__ Maybe about 240 codes out of 255 available, 8 bit converter / _____ / \__ Sync tips could go below the solid bar reference value ----- /

when a device processes the analog, first of all, the analog is AC coupled. The signal will then drift with respect to that solid reference bar on the digitizer. There is some kind of process called "DC restoration", which aligns the solid bar on the analog output side, with the reference solid bar on the digitizer input. Basically, this is a correction for the AC coupling used.

If DC restoration worked properly, the codes in the upper part of the waveform, give you a bright picture.

If DC restoration failed, and the incoming analog drifted down, then the 240 codes are "squashed down into the dark area". Everything is too dark.

I have had a lot of trouble, with computer Composite output, feeding the input on the front of a vacuum tube TV set. I always got a dark picture.

What I discovered for TV, is if I used an RF modulator (converts Composite to a broadcast channel), and then forced the TV to receive the broadcast signal coming from the modulator, that "corrected" the DC problem, and the picture was then bright again. I even made my cheap DVD set top player work with the TV, by routing the signal through the RF modulator, so I could see videos.

That obviously, does not solve every problem you could have in the TV room. It's just meant to illustrate that at least "some of the kit you own", actually works properly.

Once a video is recorded darkly (incorrectly recorded), the TV may have brightness and contrast settings on the remote or fiddled by buttons on the TV, which can kinda make the video view-able. If the picture is squashed into fewer than 240 codes, that will present a muddy degraded video.

This shows the basic operation (in the diagram), of lifting a signal that was AC coupled. The process is not arbitrary -- it must be clamped to a "reference level", for the visible signal on the TV screen, to have the "right brightness". The clamp shown in the top right photo here, if it was used in a TV set, the picture would be "washed out and mostly white". That's because it's not clamped so the sync tips still work. The waveform on the right has been lifted too high. But Wikipedia does not have an article on "DC Restoration", so we have to be content with an article about "Clamper" instead.

According to page 16 of the manual there should be a button e (with a leaf ?)

which is right underneeath the DOWN arrow button on one illustrated remote but not on the other one, where its REC

(Energy Saving) which adjusts the brightnes of the screen to reduce energy

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quote:

One of the best things about LG Smart TVs is that they have features designed to help you save energy.

By default, your TV automatically scans the immediate environment for ambient light and then adjusts the screen brightness accordingly. As the amount of ambient light increases, your TV’s brightness goes down, thereby helping you to save energy.

The problem with this feature is that your TV’s brightness levels will keep on changing all day long. It can sometimes make your screen too dark and ruin your viewing experience.

On the upside, you can easily turn off your TV’s energy-saving mode and lock in a consistent brightness level that reflects your preference and taste.

Here’s how to go about it:

:unquote

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