Understood, however, I was thinking it would be *easier* to have the condensate discharged automatically, rather than having to do so manually. One less thing to have to bother with and less chance of dropping / spilling / breaking the machine or discharge container?
It's a great deal better than the washer dryer we had before, but I guess that's not saying much :)
Most of the complaints about heat pump dryers (apart from the cost) is people saying they take longer to dry, I'm not convinced this is the problem people make it out to be. A "normal" load of say a bedding change (cotton) and a couple of towels spun at 1600rpm dries in about 2.5 hours. AFAICS this is about on par with a non heat pump machine.
I guess spinning at a lower speed or putting m,ore stuff in will greatly affect drying time.
But surely it's easier *not* to have to do it? Do you not bother with your TV remote?
Oh, I'm sure that makes it more flexible but as ours would go on the work top over a washing machine that is also plumbed in, I would plumb it in if there were no reasons why you wouldn't (like it may make it more prone to overflowing etc).
It's the same with a dehumidifer ... I would always go for the plumbed in option, if it was convenient to do.
Ok, let's say you could wave a magic wand and it was plumbed in for you, wouldn't you do it?
We have a vented TD and don't forget to clean the filter? What if you start it going and then it (presumably) stops because the condensate tank is full ... then you run out of E7 etc?
I could easily have plumbed it in but it wasn't worth the effort (although I am not sure it's plumb-able, come to that).
There are two sinks each within two paces of it, so emptying takes no time at all.
The tank has never filled up during drying. It's a big tank, and the total caoacity is that plus the holding tank inside the machine (I know that's big as well, I've looked).
I believe that like some freezers, Heat Pump driers aren't able to cope with winter garage temperatures which might be where some of the more extreme non-drying times are quoted as I'd suspect there's a very large percentage of UK residents that have both washing machine and tumbledrier in the garage or some form of un-heated utility room. It's something manufacturers haven't (as far as I'm aware) taken into consideration when detailing the location requirements.
Yes, but assuming it was, that was my question (you didn't have to do it or pay to have it done).
But *it still needs emptying*. ;-(
Now, if you are looking for things to do to say keep you exercised then that's fine but I would put *not* plumbing that sort of thing in alongside lighting your gas hob with matches when it has the facility of auto ignition or using the buttons on your TV rather than using the remote?
It's different with say a *portable* de-humidifier because, it's portable ... but for a TD that's going to be sat in the same place for ever, not plumbing it in makes as much sense as hooking the output pipe from your washing machine or dishwasher over the sink every time you go to use it rather than plumbing it in, or running an extension lead out every time to run your TD, rather than putting in a fixed point?
True, but to look at, it looks every bit as flimsy as any cheap electric model. It certainly doesn?t look like extra money was spent on any internals just because it was a gas model.
No idea. The trouble is the reliability of a 27 year old model isn?t necessarily representative of newer models. Have been impressed by the support from Crossley over the years for the very occasional spare part though.
I guess it's like computer cases. In the old days they were very heavy and robust, now they are (often) just strong enough to hold all the bits in place because in most cases, that's really all they need to do.
The thing is the difference between a good and a less good bearing is generally very little (if you are only buying one), so I wonder if you could tell just by looking from the outside?
When I saved the 13 month old Zanussi washing machine that was written off because the bearings had failed and the tub was plastic and welded (rather than bolted) together and so 'not financially viable to repair', if being done so 'professionally'. I replaced the bearings with quality bearings and they lasted 7+ times the time of the original ones.
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