Tumble dryer blows but doesn't heat?

[Will]

Hi,

My Hoover A8576 washer dryer is old and is continually breaking, but I've become attached to it so I wonder if you can help me save it one more time?

Washing works fine, but when it comes to drying, the heating element isn't getting hot and the timer wheel at the front of the machine doesn't run down.

The motor that blows the air into the drum is working fine.

Can you tell me which connections to connect my multimeter to diagnose the problem (continuity testing etc)

I've previously put a new drain pump in and I'm pretty clued up electrically, and obviously any advice you give will be at my own risk.

I've used the wonder of the internet to provide photos of the element, with connections highlighted with letters to aid description!! (I'm hopeful this link will work:)

in advance,

Will

[Colin Wilson]

If its anything like the POS Hoover washer dryer I had, there`s likely to be a small resettable overheat somewhere on the top near the air intake / fan blower.

[Will]

Hi Colin, many thanks for helping. I've looked for one and I can't see anything thatlooks like a button etc

[Frank Erskine]

You could check for mains power reaching the heating element.

[Will]

Hi Frank, thanks for replying, There's power to each of the connections b to i

[mrcheerful]

the little bit in the middle with the grey and brown leads looks like an overheat device.

[Andy Cap]

Remove the connections from B C D E and measure resistance

I'm guessing there should be a resistance reading between each pair, probably horizontally, possibly vertically. Let us know.

Andy

[Will]

Hi Mr Cheerful, thanks for helping. What would I do with it (I've marked it's connection K and L in the diagram) to reset it? or would I fit a new one?

[Lobster]

When my Creda did exactly this, it was the thermostat (a bimetallic strip, so obviously identifiable) which had disintegrated; a simple diy job to replace it.

David

[Will]

Cheers Guys, Andy - Thanks for your reply, I'll get right on the resistance measurement, and get back to you all with the results ()My multimeter has decided to not work today of all days). Lobster, I've looked and I can't see and Bimetallic strip?

[Steve S]

Will,

There may be either a automatically resetting thermal cutout that's gone wrong, or a thermal fuse that's blown. All examples of the latter that I've seen are bullet shaped with a metallic looking body and a coloured plastic tip, with the leads arranged axially. These are non-resettable and are sometimes crimped, sometimes welded into place. You can't solder them in without destroying them. Oh! Probably about 10-12 mm long and 3-4 mm diameter. Had one go on a Creda tumble dryer once and was able to crimp a new one in. If it is one of these, take a look at:

be sure to get the correct temperature rating.

HTH,

Steve S

[Pat-UK]

Hi there

FIRST THING FIRST UNPLUG THE MACHINE !!!

unless you know what your doing it is not safe or necessary to test th machine live, I do this job for a living

The first thing to check will be the overheat stat (k+l) remove bot wires and check for continuity, between the 2 tags, This is the mos common fault on these, this is usually a push re-set device, but your looks like a one hit type. so when it's gone , it's gone !!!

If there is continuity between on that one then check the other 2 fron one in the same way.

The heater elements are 2 separate elements b-d and c-e chec continuity on those tags too, it is unlikely to be a heater though.

if all the above check out OK then it will be the dryer timer. this ca be replaced without too much hassle but again, these are usuall reliable.

IMPORTANT !!!!! If (as I suspect) the cut out at K+L has failed, the it usually fails for a reason, this is usually the condenser blocke (white chamber that goes from the back of the drum to the fan) YOU MUS CLEAR THIS OUT. or it will fail again quickly !!!!

If you need a new stat, just post your model number (will start A3) an I will dig one out for you.

Hope the above helps

Pa

-- Pat-UK