Finally realized why you shouldn't use the dryer top as a makeshift workbench

I did something nearly identical to my old Kenmore Elite when I was trying to install some cabinetry above it last summer. My drill slipped and I gouged a deep furrow right through the enamel and into the underlying steel. Like yours, it looked like a total disaster, but as long as you didn't nick the drum belt or the thermal fuse wiring, these machines are surprisingly resilient. Since yours is in a shed and already exposed to the air, you really want to seal those raw metal edges before rust sets in. I ended up using some automotive Bondo to fill the gash, sanded it down with 220-grit sandpaper, and then hit it with a couple of coats of appliance touch-up spray. It didn't look factory new, but it stopped the vibrations from making the cut worse and kept the moisture out.

If the plastic trim is jagged, a bit of epoxy putty works wonders. It’s better than tossing a perfectly good machine just because of a cosmetic scar. As long as the door still seals tight and that front panel isn't rattling, I’d say keep running it until it actually gives up the ghost.

I’ve had a similar 'workshop' disaster with an LG dryer I was using as a makeshift workbench, but I actually had the opposite outcome when it came to the metal. Even though you missed the control board, keep a close eye on that front panel trim. On my unit, once that plastic casing was breached, the vibration from the high-spin cycles eventually caused the structural screws nearby to rattle loose becasue the tension of the frame was compromised.

If the gash is as deep as you say, you might want to pick up some heavy-duty aluminum flashing tape or even some JB Weld SteelStik to seal that metal gap. Moisture from the shed environment will find its way into that raw steel edge fast and you'll have a rust bucket within six months. I didn't seal mine properly and the oxidation actually spread under the enamel and started flaking off into my clean laundry. It’s definately fixable, but don't just leave the 'scar' open to the air if you're keeping it in an unheated space.

I'm glad you think you missed the electronics, but have you ruled out an air pressure leak? Even if the door seal looks okay, a gash through the casing can mess with the internal vacuum. If air pulls in through that slice instead of the heater box, your drying times will tank and you'll likely burn out the element trying to compensate.

Also, did you check the front drum glides? A saw kickback puts weird lateral force on the chassis. It might seem fine now, but those plastic supports can crack under that kind of impact. I'd be worried about the drum grinding itself down once you actually put a heavy, wet load in there.