I have a GE dryer, Model No. DPXQ473ET2WW. The dryer now takes twice as
long to dry a load of clothes. The dryer heats up but not to the degree
that it used to. The dryer just doesn't get that hot.
I checked the lint, removed the vent pipes, cleaned them out and cleaned out
the bottom of the dryer. I've was told by a friend that the problem is with
the thermostat. Am I correct that there are two thermostats in this model,
one for safety and one for high-low. How can I identify the problem, and if
it is a thermostat, how can I tell which one?
I think the thermostats are expensive. I would like to be sure that I am
correcting the problem. Thanks for the help.
I don't have a reference by serial number, but from what you have said,
I am going to guess you have an electric dryer?
It is possible for at least some electric dryers to fail in a way that
they can only provide 50% of normal heat and everything else will work. The
problem may even by back at the circuit breaker. A bad or burned connection
can be the problem.
It also can be a thermostat in either electric or gas. In that case it
would likely be the upper limit thermostat. I don't know that model so I
don't know how to tell you to identify it.
It is a GE Electric Dryer Model No DPXQ473ET2WW,
You think it is an upper limit thermostat. How do I locate it on this
model. Also, what is the general cost. Is it difficult to replace. I am
not overly handy.
Thanks for your help.
I agree with Joe's analysis of the dryer problem but not with his Northern
Counties Irish math! :-)
As suggested it may well be the main thermostat or a faulty over heat
cut-out switch (maybe a bi-metal safety one).
However may I also add the following suggestion.
We fixed my neighbour' GE dryer; replacing the motor. While doing so we
indavertently found that one coil of the double coil heater had a break in
it, so they were only getting half the heat! We joined it temporarily and
drying much improved; neighbour's comment being "That it had been taking
longer to dry the clothes for some time".
So far (several months) the repaired heater is working fine but next time it
fails we'll put in a complete new heating coil for the one that broke.
Also as further agreement I'll mention that I have just replaced an old
dryer with another, used but not so old dryer and found that while the old
one did not use the neutral, so everything in it operated on 230 volts, the
newer one does use the neutral for 115 for the timer circuit motor. His
suggestion that due to a fault you may 'lost' one side of your 115 + 115 230 volt supply may be a good one. If you are not electrically knowledgeable
of three wire single phase 230/115 volts supply get some help. Also
coincidentally I found that our the double pole 30 amp (115 + 115 volts) #10
AWG wiring, circuit breaker was faulty and replaced it. while hooking up the
'new' (used) dryer. Suggestions anyway.
All new parts are expensive; unless you keep them on hand from old scrapped
units. Timers and any other parts that carry the high current of an electric
dryer, including thermostats, are particualrly prone to burn out.
BTW a 230 volt heater operating on only 115 volts will give only one quarter
the amount of heat. Because Watts = (volts x volts) divided by resistance of
heater coil.. V squared/R = W
But in case of my neighbour the 230 volts was OK but half the heater had
broken! So we were getting half the heat. Neighbours wife highly chuffed
with restored and shortened drying time!
There are lots of appliance parts sites out there. Try
http://www.repairclinic.com/0001.asp . With the model number you'll be able
to call up parts. They have pictures of the parts so you'll know what to
look for. There is usually a wiring diagram stuck on the dryer and in the
owner's manual. You'll need a Volt Meter to troubleshoot if the part to be
replaced doesn't look totally burned up. Be sure to protect the meter probes
and wires from the heat during testing.
Q - Dryer takes too long to dry or multiple times to dry a load
A1- Pull the dryer out away from the wall. Unhook the vent from the
dryer completely. Do not put anything over the dryer exhaust on the
back of the dryer. Do a normal load with the vent unhooked. If it
dries better or ok like this then the problem is in the dryer venting.
Like a blocked vent pipe or a smashed or restricted vent hose.
A2 - If the vent doesn't make a difference, then check the blower
wheel for excessive lint build up, check that there isn't anything
stuck to the air intake baffle inside the drum, (i.e. the screen on
the back wall of the dryer when looking into the drum). Check the lint
filter chute for blockage. Check that the heating element isn't
shorted to ground. Check the exhaust temperature of the dryer. A meat
or pocket thermometer can be used for this. It should cycle between
120 degrees and 160 degrees. Check that the drum seals are not worn
2 for the heat yes.
Check the heating elements first before worrying about the
Appliance Repair Aid
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