Things they don't tell you about hole saw arbors #23

Not all of them have the notches... you can also substitute the supplied drill for a longer one if it helps. (I also realised you can stick a long drill in it, and leave a bit poking out of the back, so you can grab it with the chuck. Handy when the shank on the arbour is 12mm and you want to use it in a drill with a 10mm chuck).

I want a hole saw manufacturer to design a tool that doesn't require considerable effort to extract the waste!

How about putting holes in the top so you could use a punch rather than fiddling around with various screwdrivers.

Don't try and drill on the mark with it. Use a separate drill or use the arbor and pilot drill without the hole saw first - then you've got a positive location for the pilot to locate in.

SteveW

CMT sold by Scott and Sergeant

I recently had to holesaw some awkwardly placed holes in trunking, like Steve I drilled all the pilot holes with a normal 6mm drill first then all the pilot drill had to do was locate in the pre-drilled hole. Alternatively in material where the pilot drill may wander or drill an off centre hole, make a template, secure it in position and drill without the pilot drill. Worked for me when I had to match the entry points on a CU with holes in the trunking. Also worked for me when core drilling for some conduit and I did not have a long enough pilot drill.

Richard

In message snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com, Tricky Dicky snipped-for-privacy@sky.com writes

I've done this using core drills too small for a guide drill.

Now why didn't you tell me that before I bought the set I use:-)

Worked for me when I had to match the entry points on a CU with holes in the trunking.

Was it you that came down in conduit from trunking up at ceiling height to the knockouts?

Yes Adam, I used conduit couplers with brass bushes to connect to trunking from the CU.

Richard

I don't forget everything I read then:-)