Tap Washers

In the old old days hot and cold washers used a different rubber, the hot being more temperature resistant (often two colours, as well). I have not seen this for decades, they are normally made from the same sort of synthetic rubber that should not harden in normal hot water. Is yours *very* hot? If so, it's potentially unsafe. I suspect you have just got cheap and very unsatisfactory washers.

Are the taps very old? I have re-cut seats on old valves a couple of times, but it's not a common problem.

You were clear enough, I was just trying to add some more info. I guess in the old days that natural rubber (or the synthetic SBR which is chemically almost identical) might have been used for cold tap washers for cheapness. But the other common synthetics such as nitrile, butyl, EPDM and neoprene which have a higher temperature rating are (IIRC) not significantly more expensive these days. I think they would all be safe for potable water. Silicone and Viton will take higher temperatures and are a bit more expensive. In a tap washer, the environmental factors that degrade some rubbers (Ozone and UV light) are not present. On a quick Google I have not been able to find any obvious statement of what tap washers contain.

When I was a kid in the 1950's/60's tap washer replacement was if not an annual then certainly a routine job for my dad. I don't believe I have replaced more than three or four in my ten or so taps in the past 30 years.

More limescale inside the hot tap?

Rubber washers have a high temperature coefficient of expansion, so what might be shut off when hot may not be when cold.

The other problem I have come across it the tap thread, where it becomes stiff when under pressure. I would suggest an application of silicone grease on the threads to see if this helps.

I used to stamp them out from 1/4" leather for my grandad.

About 7 years ago I replaced two taps. The cold one always did this, and early this year I took it apart and discovered that the seat was simply not uniform - maybe a casting error - so it would drip unless screwed down HARD which of course destroyed the washer.

I spent hours reseating it because I couldn't get a decent replacement in the same style.

Fredxx explained :

The metalwork of the tap will also expand and contract with variations in temperature. When washing up, I will set the cold tap to dribble to rinse things. The slow dribble will sometimes stop when the really cold water gets to the tap.

Not been a problem, especially with the Torbeck valve since having a water softener installed.

Harry Bloomfield, Esq. snipped-for-privacy@harrym1byt.plus.com> wrote in news:s418nd$q3u$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Tirning the tap more just ends up deforming the washer into the seating. The washer is just like a lid - pressed "on" should be enough. Tightening it more only ends up wrecking the washer and wearing the threads. I used to orient the "H" and "C" into the correct angle when the tap was turned off sufficietly. I could tell at a glance when my brother in law had been round as his house wasn't well maintained and he was used to being brutal with taps.

JohnP brought next idea :

Yep, me too. Some see the spout dripping after it's off, as a need to give it an extra 1/2 turn, whereas it is just the spout draining. The cold usually does this, as the cold water warms up and expands.

ha ha we have very soft water up here Gareth .....

Harry Bloomfield, Esq. snipped-for-privacy@harrym1byt.plus.com> wrote in news:s41jhv$819$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Or have OCD and give it a twist whenever they pass. Ceramic cartridges eventually gives a cure.

Now - how do I fix my obsessive loathing of the push taps in public toilets that never work properly of leak past the plunger.