Switching from MR16 to GU10 bulbs

Dec 08, 2019 Last reply: 6 years ago 8 Replies
L

Hi All,



Just wanted to double check something. I have a load of MR16 bulbs with transformers and as per a previous discussion on here am about to change them all to GU10.



The current setup for each bulb is that the transformer is connected into one of those standard round lighting junction boxes. The other end of the transformer then fits into a small standard wiring connector (the screw down type) which connects it to the lamp holder. Hope that makes sense....



To save messing around with the junction box, my plan is to cut the transformer wire that comes out of the junction box and reuse it to connect into my new lamp holders. Given this is the 240v side of the transformer and the power of the bulb (and therefore current) is a lot less than it was before, I don't think this would be an issue.



Wanted to double check here before I embark on doing 50 of these only to have to redo them :)



thanks



Lee.


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A

Sounds OK to me.

I presume that you have checked the new GU10 lamp holders will physically fit with the new LED lamps?

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L

Yes thanks Adam they seem to fit ok.

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P

Actually, MR16 is the shape of the envelope; GU10 is the connector - it's just that almost all GU10-based lamps are MR16 in shape, but it is possible to get other shapes with GU10. There's an MR16 to GU10 adaptor but, given that some GU10s are glass and quite heavy, I wouldn't trust that - the other way round would be OK.

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L

Hi All,

I fitted a dozen of them at the weekend but hit a slight problem. I have fire rated spot light fittings where the bulb holder leads thread through the top of the fitting and then into a connection block secured to a metal bracket on the top. I assume it is like this to ensure the cable doesn't touch the hot metal fitting (when I had halogen bulbs fitted). The trouble I have is that the length of the MR16 lamp holder cable is longer than the GU10 ones I bought - arrpox 220mm vs 140mm. This means that if I fit the new GU10's correctly, they are not long enough to drop out of the bottom of the fitting to change the bulb. This means that to change the bulb I would need to drop the whole fitting (and maybe damage ceiling) unclip the connector to give the extra few inches to enable the bulb to drop out of the bottom so I can change it.

Anyone have any ideas?

thanks

Lee.

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R

Extend the bulb holders with a bit of flex and Wago connectors? The only issue I can see is the heat rating of the flex and connectors if someone were to stick in 50W halogens. But I catered for that when using cheap holders to convert some by sticking on labels "Danger - LED lamps only". (I think that was at Adam's suggestion - but any blame is of course all mine if eg the house burns down).

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A

A pro might consider unclipping the connector block (and the cover) from the metal bracket and not bother telling the customer....

Heat is no longer a problem and you are never going to swap them back to halogens.

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