AFAIK they throttle the total power back when you are using multiple "burners". It's a rare occurrence here to use more than two simultaneously, not that my hob has that limitation.
AFAIK they throttle the total power back when you are using multiple "burners". It's a rare occurrence here to use more than two simultaneously, not that my hob has that limitation.
Can't see an easy way to remove this hotplate and replace it with an induction hob. Can anyone please give me advice on taking out the hob with minimal damage to surroundings?
Remove the oven first - usually if you open the door you will see screws in the edge holding it to the cabinet sides.
The clamps holding the hob to the worktop can then be loosened and swivelled from the underside.
Owain
Thanks Owain, I didn't want to start pulling too much apart if there was an easier way.
That *is* the easy way.
It's how it went in :-)
Owain
Possibly it is sufficient to remove the plate behind the oven knobs, and then get at teh fixings from underneath. .
And this
Thomas Prufer
Much appreciated. I have done some big jobs in the past that could have been much smaller jobs, if only I'd known.
And he even read the manuals !.
What sort of 'tradesman' does that ?. :-)
Nice video. Such a smooth operation.
Sure giveaway that he's an actor?
(Photo of a model holding a self-evidently cold soldering iron.)
Thomas Prufer
Once you have it out (or maybe even before) you might want to check that the cable from the consumer unit is big enough for the induction hob that you intend to install. Induction can take a whole lot more current than a standard hob.
Besides the 'mechanical' side, check the electrical side. Our induction hob required a dedicated spur (30A from memory) which the company who did the kitchen took care of. (We also needed another one for a 2nd oven, the existing spur being used for the 1st oven.)
Induction hobs are great by the way. When we were planning the kitchen change, I wanted a gas hob but Senior Management wanted Induction. I'm pleased I relented ;-)
Big help thanks.
Great tip! Thanks.
Our Bosch induction hob just drops into place just its own weight and a number of clips gripping the edges of the cutout. The other thing that surprised me is you are not use any sealant.
Richard
I'm pretty sure our AEG hob came with an integral sealant strip.
Do any UK hobs daisy-chain off the oven like that?
They seem to vary from 13A plug-in, to 16A hard-wired to 32A hard-wired, I've heard lots of people raving about how good induction hobs are, has anyone got any stories about the lower powered ones being ... um ... underpowered?
Our new house (new to us) has an Aga. It also has a fitted oven, but no hob, for use in a hot summer when you might not want the Aga on.
So we bought a portable one-ring induction hob from IKEA. It's rated at 2 kW. It heats a pan of water very quickly: a lot faster than a standard kettle for the same amount of water.
Our Neff came set up limited to 13A. But there is a magic sequence of button presses to crank the limit up to 20A with a hard-wired circuit. It has a "b" setting for any ring that will shove all 20A through that ring. Your pan will boil toot sweet.
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