Submersible cable junction

[Huge]

The submersible pump that's an essential part of my drainage system has developed a dicky float switch. I have a spare switch from a previous iteration of problems with the pump but I'm reluctant to dismantle the pump to replace the float switch, since there's nothing wrong with the pump, and getting them watertight can be a pain (especially since it's been in the cess pit for the best part of 10 years and is, how shall I put this, a tad mucky...)

So, I'd like to cut the old switch off and substitute the replacement, but how do I do a watertight join in the cable? I can use layers of heat shrink tubing, hot glue and self amalgamating tape, but is there a 'pukka' solution?

[js.b1]

They make IP68 inline cable joiners, basically an IP68 gland, threaded tubed, IP68 gland. Then solder & adhesive heatshrink the insulated cores inside that.

Just verify the glands seal properly.

If really critical (re secondary bills) stuff the ends with Bicon R931 "dog-poop" re-enterable potting compound. TLC do R931 (putty) and Magic Gel (pourable).

[Owain]

You'll need IPx7 up to 1 metre submersion or IPx8 (see manufacturer's details for limits).

This is IP68

there's a possibility that future replacement of the switch might be required, Bulgin Buccaneer are IP68.

Owain

[js.b1]

Pratley default glands are for SWA, if that is what the switch is wired in then fine, otherwise you would need to buy stuffing glands for flex which are somewhat different.

Bulgin indeed to an IP68 plug-socket, from miniature to quite large, they are quite well made and would make it easy to change the switch in the future (could have a plug prefitted on it making it quick n easy).

Cess pit pump... ewwwwwww.

[ARWadsworth]

Well if it is round flex then most places sell inline waterproof connectors. B&Q sell them as do most garden centres

[Andrew Mawson]

previous

replacement,

bolts

HV underground cables are joined by screw sleeves, and then potted in epoxy resin loaded with dry sand. I watched EDF make an underground joint in the 11KV cable under my vegetable patch and was impressed how simple it was for such a critical joint. Afrer the electrical joint was made, a preformed plastic box was taped round the cables and resin poured in a hole at the top. TLC & Screwfix sell a similar joiner for SWA but as it is potted I don't see that the cable type make much odds.

If the technique is ok at 11kv in wet ground 240 in your klargester should be ok!

AWEM

[Dave Liquorice]

Yipes, I'd be a bit concerned about an 11kV line anywhere I was digging. Get just that little bit to ethusiastic with a fork and if not kaboom then kaboom later when the damage causes a cable fault.

A potted joint doesn't fit with the OP's requirement for remaking at a future date. Think I'd go for a good mechanical joint on each wire, wrap with self amalgating tape, one of the inline potting joiners but pack with some sort of water resistant but non setting goop (R??? "dog-poop" was mentioned earlier) then possibly wrap the whole thing in more SA tape depending on how good the cable seals and halves of the potting box looked.

[Huge]

I suppose I could just sigh loudly and replace the whole damn thing. I have a spare pump ...

[John Rumm]

Sounds like a mating pair of waterproof flex connectors would be ideal. Stick one on the stub of cable, the other on the cable from the flow switch. If you need to replace the switch, just move the plug to the new one.

e.g.

[Huge]

a lot cheaper than a posh plug/socket arrangement.

(Of course, once I've done this, the pump will fail and I'll have to replace it anyway...)

[John Rumm]

> Probably a lot cheaper than a posh plug/socket arrangement.

It would work, although be slightly more hassle changing...

[Mike Tomlinson]

In article , js.b1 writes

Fill with glue from hot-melt glue gun?