I'm putting a pump in our well to water the garden and probably orchard too . I got to wondering , this is a 1 hp pump , and when it starts there will be a torque reaction . How significant is this , is it a problem waiting to happen ? I was planning on using either white PVC pipe or that black shiny flexible stuff , and the pump will be suspended in the well by cable . If needed I can go to galvanized pipe ... but 40 plus feet of iron pipe is going to be quite a bit more weight to deal with .
Submersible pump
Mar 11, 2022
Last reply: 4 years ago
19 Replies
An article here re piping etc may help you especially re a "Torque Arrestor"
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This article describes a torque arrestor :
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John T.
Standard install here is to use poly pipe, (that black shiny stuff), electric cable taped to it, down the casing. I've seen that used on wells about
75 ft deep, I would assume you can go deeper too.
Thanks to you and Retired ! I was concerned about all the problems the torque arrestor solves and I have one on order now . I also learned other things , like using a flow restricter to not over-pump the well . Ours is 63 feet deep - measured yesterday - and the water is about 24 feet below ground level. I'll be setting the pump about 50 feet down so that should work out about right . This is my first rodeo with well pumps ... and we're sure looking forward to having enough cheap water to really kick the garden into high gear . Added bonus to saving on the water bill is that the well water is not treated with chemicals - and may one day be our primary water source .
Our well pump hasn't seen daylight since before we moved here in '94. .. with average family usage in our home and in the one neighbour who is supplied from my well. There - I've jinxed it .. :-) .. We have replaced the bladder tank over that time - once, if I remember right. John T.
We have been in this house for 47 years with a well and have probably saved money on water but the well bills can hit you hard when they come. Three years ago I described needing a new well dug as old one collapsed. Our pump had gone in the old well and I had plumber do work and putting in new pump collapsed well. We had water but pump could not be removed and I got stuck with $2,000 bill. This guy is no longer our plumber.
New well with pump and bladder tank was $7,000. Even though only maybe
50 ft from the old well water was not as good as old but has been slowly improving. Our recovery rate is over 25 gmp which is very high.I had a sediment filter and added an iron filter.
Tested the water myself with kit from Lowes. You should do this with your well. I could have got a very cheap test from the state but it would have taken a couple of weeks and I wanted quicker results. The longest test for bacteria takes a couple of days.
Considering around here folks are paying up to a $100/month for water, in the long run you save with a well but when something goes wrong you get socked.
snippage
The folks who sell expensive iron remover systems will fail to mention that a normal old water softener will successfully remove the iron - if the iron level is fairly low. It _might_ take a couple years off the life of the water softener but using the special softener salt that has iron/rust remover helps. Our un-softened raw well water will stain the top part of Brita jug and the garden hose & sprayers over time - but the sinks, tubs & toilets are fine - no rust stains. John T.
[snip... regarding the "torque" problems when the well pump kicks in]
When I was looking into related issues a decade ago at a "home improvements" show at a local college, one of the well driller folk used the term "generator friendly pump".
While the main purpose of those was to reduce the electrical starting surge, I suspect, or at least think, or guess... these would be helpful in this case, too.
Iron measured only a ppm too high but wife was complaining about stains and sediment on water standing.
I did not want to install a water softener as with septic system rules here I would have to put in a separate drain system for the salt flush.
Toilets not too bad but we have to use Iron Out every now and them.
It has something to do with oxidation of minerals as they get through filters and exposed to air precipitate out.
An ideal treatment system would put air in the water, filter it, install a water softener and sometimes a UV system for bacteria. I am a chemist but do not want to deal with a chemical factory in my basement.
What type of iron filter do you have ? The ones that I've read about < and my neighbour had installed >
have a more wasteful < & expensive ? > clean & flush process than a water softener. My water softener flushes into the septic system - never a problem - and no bylaws about it here-abouts. Also - there are different types of iron in well water :
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John T.
This is the cartridge for $49.95 at Amazon:
155263, RFFE20-BB Compatible Iron Reduction Cartridge by CFSThe housing unit cost about the same. I'll go a year and a half between changes. Sediment filter cartridge costs less than $10 and lasts about
6 months.First year and a half or so after new well was dug I was using a Britta filter for drinking water but the found water tasted just as good without it.
I do not know what extent large quantities of salt would have on your septic tank but concrete does not like salt.
$100/month? Wow!
I paid a total of ~$250 for all of 2021. I did a lot of lawn work that year and SWMBO put in some new gardens, so that's a high year for us. We do nothing to actually "conserve water" i.e. no on-off showers, etc. We just use water as we need it.
I'll be sure to tell my 30 year old concrete septic tank to be careful ! John T.
Salt can damage concrete but high dilution may not be a problem as I read it. Maybe more rational people are in charge where you live but when my next door neighbor sold his house a few years a go he was forced to divert the salt effluent elsewhere.
I remember your saga about the well . I figure that by the time there are problems I'll be long gone . This well was here when we bought the land and has never been pumped . It's a 6" PVC casing and I'm dropping a 4" pump in there . The whole reason is to get water for the garden so I'm not worried about testing right away . It was recommended that we pump it for at least a month before testing .
We had some "soft start" routers in the cabinet shop . 3.25 Hp spinnin' up to 22,000 RPMs has some torque ! The documentation on this thing is skimpy in addition to being in Chinglish . Nothing about soft start , and I'm not sure the 'lectronics to do that would consider being submerged under 20 feet of water a friendly environment . This one will be on a much lighter duty cycle than if it were our primary water source . Probably run a couple of hours 3 or 4 days a week .
Some sort of sprinklers or ditch maybe?
With my new well and old well whenever they pulled the pump, the well was shocked with chlorine tablets to sop up bacteria which made the water undrinkable for a couple of days.
Also of interest was that with old well the well head was only a few inches above ground level. New rules say it must be a foot above ground level to prevent contaminated water entering during a rain storm. Unsightly where it is, I bought an artificial hollow rock to cover it.
I haven't decided for sure , but it'll probably be a combination of sprinklers and seeper hoses . I can't do anything too permanent because I have a different layout every year .
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