Stump removal

On 8/10/2016 2:31 PM, mike wrote: don't know what the reach of a backhoe is but if it's possible to knock them out this way, I would spend the money on that rather than the aggravation of hiring/using a stump grinder.

As per OP .. there is no option to get in a machine .... have a nice new stone patio my side of wall ... so not putting machine on it .... and other side of bank is a 25' drop to a filed ..... too steep to put a machine on. (even if I did have access) ... it is also heavily wooded

Reply to
rick
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I did say in OP that it is "45m run of double staggered Leylandii" which is going to more than 100 trees

and in OP that there is no access for bobcat or similar

So far I have option to try to pull out - but never tried it (hence video link) Or a stump grinder - but may be take a long time - (long hire time)

I just tried eBay ... wow the Tirfor winches go for very high prices .... guess the Landrover market keeps price up.

Reply to
rick

45 metres of double row hedge. Doesn't take a genius to work out that that is quite a lot of trees.

Also said that digger access wasn't possible in original post. Time for new reading glasses methinks.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

300mm? My new hedge has no problems but the plants were big and the ground prepared befor planting. Watering was essential. As I said, Laurels are like weeds and grow just about anywhere.
Reply to
Capitol

What's the chance that you destroy the brick wall?

Reply to
Capitol

By using winch - think I'm OK ... I built wall 1m in front of bank, filled first 1m with stone (& French drain, all wrapped in Terram ... and then soil on top .... trees were in the bank behind .... so hoping majority of root is in the bank. With a winch taking it slowly ... I 'may' be OK

However if people with experience think not then I will go the stump grinder option.

Reply to
rick

I think of my Leylandii like that :-)

Reply to
rick

Just reached out to a firm that specialises in stump removal - lets see what they charge

Reply to
rick

I just can't see pulling these trees out without a lot of ground damage and massive force. I'd cut them off at ground level and settle down to digging holes big enough to plant in, in a single row between the stumps. Laurels have more lateral spread, so you won't need two rows. If desperate, buy smaller plants and use a post hole borer SDS? It'll just take a few more years to establish, but water well and add compost.

Reply to
Capitol

Welcome to the bitter experience club!

Reply to
Capitol

How are you getting rid of the cuttings?

Reply to
Capitol

Reply to
Andy Burns

Probably local recycling centre ... they have skips for green waste

Probably just leave pulled stumps other side of the bank, they can roll down bank till they stop at a tree :-)

Reply to
rick

On 8/10/2016 5:08 PM, Capitol wrote: I just can't see pulling these trees out without a lot of ground

I don't want to use Laurels as "is not suitable for seaside gardens" and I live 500m form the sea. I will use either Oleaster ?

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Griselinia -

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My original idea was to cut them to just below ground level and plant new hedge between - avoid any stump removal (not something I really want to do)....but advice from Hedge suppliers and RHS is that this is unlikely to be successful. You can't plant new hedge close enough ( at least 5 per M) the stump will be in the way ... and the side spread of roots means you will have difficult getting roost of new hedge established.

Reply to
rick

I watched that video.

He seemed to be pulling up twigs.

He also didn't seem to have thought about what would happen if that chain snapped when under tension - i.e. travel quite quickly through the space he was occupying.

Darwin Award candidiate.

Reply to
Sam Plusnet

I would say 5 per M is unnecessarily close. That's almost every 8"; ridiculous! Probably recommended in order to sell more plants! When I took out my Leylandii hedge several years ago (see my earlier post in this thread) I replaced it with a single row of Eleagnus ebbingei, planted about 2 per M at the closest (every 18" in old money). Neither the stumps nor roots of the Leylandii got in the way. We live in a very exposed position in West Cornwall, probably a little closer to the sea than you and 300ft up, facing SW and getting the full blast of salty winter gales. Eleagnus ebbingei is excellent in that situation, fast growing and tolerant of those harsh conditions. It's not entirely hardy, but as you're on the coast, it should be OK. Other hedging plants you might consider for coastal exposure as well as the Oleaster (Olearia Traversii, which I also have and is good), are Olearia virgata Laxifolia* (finer leaved than the Oleaster), also fast growing, and Quercus Ilex (Holm oak). Although the Holm oak is capable of reaching tree proportions (as are the Oleaster and Eleagnus if they're allowed to), it can be kept clipped to make a tough seaside hedge.

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    Nursery just up the road from me
50 5ltr Olearia Laxifolia plants delivered for just £377.08 + VAT Or 15 20ltr Olearia Laxifolia plants delivered for just £327.08 + VAT

Smaller plants will establish better in an exposed site. Almost anything will need staking for the first few years under such conditions.

Reply to
Chris Hogg

You can treat stumps with a special fungus that rots them away.

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Reply to
harry

The other way is to light a fire round the stump and "fan" it with leaf blower.

Reply to
harry

£450 a day ... and estimates 3-4 days that is with stump grinder.
Reply to
rick

As per previous response setting fire to 100+ stumps id not an option. Last time I tried burning out a stump it took days, and still left all the serious sized roots behind - just too green to burn.

Reply to
rick

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