Stripped screwhead on laptop motherboard

Opened up laptop to upgrade memory on a difficult to access memory slot on a netbook only to find that one of the screws had already been completely stripped (screw head). It was a recon machine, and works fine, so I'm not too surprised or disappointed - I just want to fix it!

Being in a laptop, I'm sensitive to metal shavings etc, and the screw isn't a large one.

My thoughts are:-

- slowly work a flat groove to get a flat screwdriver in it - but what tool to use?

- araldite a screwdriver into the slot and try to turn when set?

- *carefully* drill screw head off

Any other good suggestions?

Thanks!

Matt

Reply to
larkim
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when you say "not a large one" I expect a screw extractor will be too big?

make a groove or indent even at the outer of the screwhead and then tap (small hammer) a screwdriver at an angle (chisel style) in the direction to undo (counterclock?)

what sort of torque are these done up with? i.e. how strong would the glue bond have to be to get it started? would superglue be enough either to make a "lump" or something to chisel against or as you say glue the screwdriver to it ?

use a magnetic screwdriver or similar to catch the swarf you make if drilling...

JimK

Reply to
JimK

Axminster sell sets of screw extractors, though the ones on a lappy might be too small for their smallest.

Reply to
pete

car body filler on the screw head. glue something with that.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

An inevitable response!! Sadly I don't have any CBF around, and the amount required would be so miniscule that I think I'll pass on this option for now!

Matt

Reply to
larkim

I'd go with the Araldite.

Reply to
Bruce

Have you tried the proper sized screwdriver? Whilst it may be stripped the proper screwdriver might still bite. Likewise a slightly larger screwdriver may bite - do not use much turning force, use compression and also try tightening first rather than loosening.

Glue might work if you glued the proper sized screwdriver in what is left - ie as a filler and bonding agent. Beware many laptop screws have loctite on them, so will make a crack sound when undone - hence you need a screwdriver with glue.

Use a soldering iron to heat the screw first, then freezer spray, helps break any bond. Then pure alcohol to clean the screw before using glue with the correct sized screwdriver.

A drill & screw extractor is basically a reverse thread so should work if you can find one small enough.

Buy new screws on Ebay or from the parts place - of the right length not just size :-)

Reply to
js.b1

I just can't res.......is..t .. it !! Angle grinder !!

Reply to
robgraham

Don't waste your time glueing things to the screw head. The adhesion force of any glue will be far less than the torque required to undo it. Easiest way is to drill the head off. Mask round the screw with masking tape and paper to catch swarf and use a drill bit just a tad larger than the screw shank which you can check against another screw. Once you've removed whatever the screw is holding you'll have a couple of mm of threaded stub sticking out which you can grip with pliers. Don't start butchering the screw head before you try drilling or you'll lose the shape of the cross headed screwdriver hole which should keep the drill bit centred. You may find it easier to stay centred if you start with a smaller drill bit and work up.

There's an article on tool use techniques and removing stubborn fasteners on my website.

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Reply to
Dave Baker

Hmm. Is there room to cut a slot in the screwhead with a dremel? Just make sure you give the board a thorough wash afterwards and give it adequate time to dry out.

Is there room to get a *good quality* pair of needle-nose pliers on the screw head? (cheap ones just have too much slop in the pivot). Suggest laying a little thin piece of plastic (with a hole the size of the screwhead) on the board if you do this, to protect any PCB traces around the screw from accidental mashing by the pliers.

Get a left-handed drill bit and use that to extract the screw?

Worst-case, can you drill out the support for the screw from below and just live without a screw in that location?

cheers

Jules

Reply to
Jules

Thanks all for the tips.

All of the other screws in the device were easy to remove, and as I said it was a recon model so I suspect any glue around the threads was removed when the recon guys did their stuff (including bashing this screw head).

I'm not expecting it to be overtighted, which is why I was quite keen to try the araldite route - might just give enough adhesion to make the difference. (Though possibly it has stripped because the recon guy couldn't get it out - because it is overtightened.....)

Screw itself is only about 4mm long (shank is probably 1-1.5mm with a

3 or 4mm head).

I've got the right screwdriver, and have tried one size larger and one size smaller.

I really don't fancy taking a drill to the inside of a laptop, but that might be my only hope now!

Matt

Reply to
larkim

Pressure Washer.

Pressure washer is the new offical uk.d-i-y Angle Grinder for 2010.

Keep with the programme!

(Though I can see a mess with that...)

Reply to
Adrian C

Try gently tapping the end of the screwdriver with a small hammer while applying some anti-clockwise torque to the screwdriver.

Archie

Reply to
Archie

DIY small scale impact driver?

Reply to
JimK

Smirk, I know it is a laptop but...

Electronic Discharge Machine (EDM).

Wil eat away a small screw in no time :-)))

Reply to
js.b1

I've had success doing the same job by finding an old, small Philips screwdriver and filing or grinding the end of the tip off. This leaves a flat on the end with an edge to it, and this can sometime be just enough to bite into the screw head.

Another method is to take a small, flat-headed screwdriver and turn out the corners of the tip with a pair of wire cutters ( it'll need to be a cheap screwdriver ). Think about the direction you need to turn the driver to undo the screw ( anti-clockwise ) and turn up the appropriate corners to that they'll dig into the screw head.

Regards,

Reply to
Stephen Howard

Any chance of "tinning" a bead of solder onto the screw head?

If yes take anothe similar (or smaller) diameter screw and soldering it to the first.

Remove with pliers

Reply to
Vortex4

Vortex4 presented the following explanation :

Or a similar idea...

Tin the head and before the solder sets, plunge the correct cross head screwdriver into the still molten solder (or reheat with the screwdriver in place). The heat will help free it and the solder will help improve the screwdrivers grip in the screw head.

Reply to
Harry Bloomfield

I'm surprised no one has suggested an angle grinder !

: )

Roger R

Reply to
Roger R

Seriously, I wouldn't try anything like grinding or drilling that produces metal particles that may cause other problems.

If you can get enough access I find a pair of mole wrenches clamped onto the edges of the screw head will often enable it to be rotated, or sheer it off if seized. Note the mole wrench is held vertically above the board gripping the screw head in the jaw tips. Some fiddling about may be required to get the necessary tension setting.

Even though the screw head may be of the domed type, I've found (in non computer situations) it may still be possible to get a grip on it with repeated attempts.

Hope this helps.

Roger R

Reply to
Roger R

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