We want to get a stove to warm quite a large room
which has no fireplace.
As far as I can see, this means a pellet stove?
Unfortunately, my wife finds the pellet stoves she has seen
rather ugly - she wants something like an old-fashioned wood stove.
Any suggestions gratefully received.
You will need a proper double insulated stove pipe going to the outside
world and a hearth constructed of e,g,. quarry tiles or concrete and
some way for air to get in - a ventilator to an outside wall behind the
stove is good. Some stoves can use balanced flues or special plumbed in
flues IIRC, but check on that.
How large is 'quite large'?
There are online tools which can calculate the kW output required to heat a
room (usually linked from stove suppliers) and most wood burners are rated
in kW output.
An 8kW wood burning stove can heat quite a large space.
This assumes you have a good supply of free/cheap seasoned hardwood.
These days if you have to buy logs at a commercial rate then using wood for
heating is more expensive than most other forms of heating.
Seasoned kiln dried hardwood can cost between £100 and £200 per ton and with
constant use a large stove will chew through that in a couple of months.
To buy and install a stove in the 7-8kW range where there is no fireplace is
likely to cost you over £2,000 where more than half the cost is for the flue
Moral - use a wood burning stove as a luxury item unless you have your own
secure supply of wood and the space to store and season it.
Pellet stoves are intended to be automatically fed with fuel from a
separate fuel store.
They are not intended to be in the front room but in a "boiler room"
They are intended for whole house heating.
This is why they look "industrial"
If you want a pretty stove it will need to be a traditional one.
Try and get a room sealed one, ie draws its air from outside through a
pipe in the wall.
They are much more efficient at heating the room.
You will need a chimney, it will cost as much as the stove.
I think there are a few pellet stoves about that aren't industrial boxes
but only a few. You don't get quite the same "real fire" effect though.
And you'll be restricted to burning pellets that have to be bought and
and stored somewhere. At least a traditional wood burner can burn any
wood you can get.
Perhaps not a chimney as in a brick/block refractory lined structure but
certainly a flue which could be stainless steel tube attached to an
outside wall running up to 1m above roof height. Putting the flue through
the building is an option but is not as easy due to the clearances
required from it to combustable materials like floorboards, joists and
The flue is certainly going to cost equal if not more than the stove and
hearth. IIRC the hearth has to be incombustable at least 6" bigger than
the stove at the sides and back and 12" bigger at the front and around 6"
thick. Not sure how close combustable materials can be to the stove, 12"
springs to mind but could be further. Don't think combustable materials
can be closer than 6" but you wouldn't want that anyway as it would
restrict the airflow and thus room warming abilty of the very hot box of
iron. Be aware that stoves are hot, they can cause burns. Think about the
postioning and risk of placing a hand on it to steady ones self or
falling against it.
An important aspect is to get the right output stove for the size of
room. Work out the heat loss of the room then look at stoves around that
output. It's not good to but a 6kW output stove into a room with only 3kW
of heat loss, it'll get rather warm and stoves aren't instantly
controllable like gas or electric heating. You can run a stove at less
than full output but to constantly run at 50% is not good for the stove
There seem to be two different sets of regulations - one about the
constructional hearth (big lump of non-combustible stuff under the floor)
and the show fireplace/hearth (tiles etc. in front of/under the stove).
Some stoves are certified to sit on a decorative hearth.
Others require a 'real' hearth underneath.
It is all to do with the maximum temperature generated by the stove
underneath - if this is certified to be within safe limits you can manage
with just a decorative hearth.
To quote our stove installer:
"The Stockton 7 is unfortunately not able to stand on a 12mm thick hearth,
which means it needs to stand on a full blown constructional hearth as per
Building Regs Document J paras 2.23 to 2.28.
What this means in practise is that you will need to lay a concrete base 125
mm thick and 840mm x 840mm square where the stove is to sit. This can be
laid level with the floor boards and any decorative hearth can be laid over
it and be smaller if it suits.
I've attached a pdf of Doc J for your use.
Another option might be to look at a different stove, one that is able to
stand on a 12mm hearth (not a constructional one). This doesn't mean that
the hearth has to be 12mm thick, it just the way the industry talks about
stoves that have been tested to show that they don't raise hearth
temperatures to over 100 deg C.
An example might be the Franco Belge Montfort Elegance, which can also have
a direct air supply (5Kw) or its bigger brother the Monaco 6Kw.
As a matter of interest, what drew you to the Stockton 7? What will the
cubic measurement of the finished room be ? 7Kw will heat up to 100m3 in a
well insulated house. It may get too hot!
We went with the Stockton and the constructional hearth.
The constructional hearth because we were tearing the place apart anyway so
putting in a concrete slab was not a big issue, and we would not be limited
in choice of stove in the future.
7 kW because the total volume of the new open space at the rear of the house
was around 100m3.
The stove does heat up the area quite quickly when going full blast but when
ticking over we need an additional source of heat to keep the place warm
(which should be installed this week with luck).
That did cross my mind but they seem to be burning it all in the open with
no though given to global warming, climate change, or the future of our
Possibly the infection remains in dead wood so it all has to be destroyed.
Although unless they also dig up and destroy all the roots I am not sure how
they really eradicate the infection.
continues to permit imports of sawn ash timber from certain countries
abroad under existing regulations against the forestry pest Emerald Ash
Borer. These require the material to be accompanied by official
phytosanitary (plant health) certificates declaring that the material either
originated in areas known to be free of EAB or that the wood is bark-free
(which addresses the Chalara risk as well) before entering GB. Imported
woodchips and bark of ash material have the same certification requirements
as for wood, but the alternative to originating in an area of pest freedom
is that the material has been processed into pieces of not more than 2.5cm
thickness and width.
Although there are no specific measures on logs and firewood in the
legislation, the general prohibition on spreading Chalara fraxinea will mean
that movement is prohibited within Great Britain of logs and firewood from
sites with confirmed Chalara fraxinea infection which have been served with
a Statutory Plant Health Notice."
So no cheap firewood :-(
In fact, with masses of hardwood trees being destroyed firewood is likely to
be even more expensive.
I think there is a movement ban. The trees will have to be destroyed on
site, it makes sense from an infection control POV.
Not relevant the carbon that is released was taken from the atmosphere in
the last 50 years not 50 million years ago.
It's a fungus and sheds spores from tiny mushrooms. I doubt it can be
eradicated but the spread might be controlable if it's not to late
if you want to be tied in to a supplier, pellet stoves are the way to
ensure that you are locked in to a pricing and delivery structure. OTOH do
you have access to a supply of firewood for a log burner? And just as
important do you have somewhere to stack firewood and are you prepared to
spend time stacking the wood up and carrying it into your home? You can bet
it won't be your wife fetching and carrying wood.
As noted my many others: No.
Some pellet stoves are designed for use in a living room. =20
The reason we went for a non-pellet stove, is that the pellet stoves
burn a small number of pellets in a forced draught. The fan makes
a noticeable noise.
Yes. You don't need a traditional fireplace, but you WILL need some sort o=
f chimney. This can be a traditional brick chimney, or a stainless steel t=
ube inside or outside the house - but you will need something.=20
I have a woodshed full of firewood, and a significant amount waiting to be be
chopped and stored under cover - pretty much all of it was free from skips.
(Note: I know we can't /all/ heat our houses from skips - but there is still
plenty of scope for the number of people doing so to increase.)
On Nov 6, 9:43=A0am, "Dave Liquorice"
So how do you destroy a tree on site?
Don't be silly.
I don't believe there is anything can be done only wait and see if
resistants pecimens emerge. Ash is seed propagated unlike elm.
e be chopped and stored under cover - pretty much all of it was free from s=
Way to go.
Local builders merchant is a good skip to look in.
I have planted my own cut-and-come-again firewood trees.