Stupid wood question

[Tim Watts]

What would you use for soffit?

I'm using Thermowood Cat D for the gutterboard - reputedly as rot resistant as cedar.

But too expensive for a 300mm soffit. Our soffit runs dry so I don't think we need anything fancy.

All I see down the yards, apart from exotics are regular "PAR" and "treated" which is rough and grey.

I don't want "cladding" - squared edged PAR type is fine - it will be screwed up and run in 3-4 planks per width for effect. This make sit easy to remove for access and a tight gap free finish is not required.

I just want something smooth that would look OK with a coat or two of microporous stain.

Which brings me to the next question. 30 years ago I swore by Sadolin PX65. As that seems no longer available, probably because it breaks every chemical ban going (I assume) - what's a good modern product?

Ta - as ever,

Tim

[Bob Minchin]

If you are going to run it as several planks across the width, I'd be tempted to run a tongue and groove profile on it to keep it all in line as it ages. This will also deal with the seasonal width changess Maybe buy it a floorboarding?

[John Rumm]

Yup T&G would give you that authentic look of plastic V board ;-)

(although if you want something planked its not a bad idea since the gaps won't open up in the dry)

Shiplap could also work if run front to back - also easier to remove a single plank later since the "grove" has an open back. You can get shiplap in 12 and 19mm and up quite wide as well if you want. Wester red cedar would be durable, although even normal softwood would last well if treated.

[meow2222]

Wouldnt pvc last better?

NT

[Tim Watts]

I don't want PVC. I'm want to put hooks and stuff in the soffits and gutterboards, which will not hold in PVC - and with wood, you can also make the holes good.

I decided that a long while back :-o

[Tim Watts]

Hi John,

The shiplap might be a good approach - and likely to be the right grade for external use.

Cheers

Tim

[Tim Lamb]

And what is wrong with 6mm plywood?

[Tim Lamb]

Find the undersides of the rafters?

[Dave Liquorice]

Oh not for 16kW of flashing christmas lights I hope.

And so you can with PVC.

As for the timber T&G would be good idea IMHO for reasons stated it'll take up the movement and stop the gaps through which all manner of (small) life could enter the roof space. Remember mice can get through a surprisingly small hole and a vertical brick wall is no climbing challenge what so ever.

[stuart noble]

The original soffits on my Victorian end of terrace are still in good (enough) nick. That high up they suffer less than all the other woodwork. I'd go for the PAR stuff. Tight grained enough to be waterproof without a finish, so something cosmetic will do

[meow2222]

snip

Sometimes that's true, sometimes water gets dumped on them & they rot away. If you use softwood at least use treated.

NT

[Tim Watts]

fugly...

[Tim Watts]

I hate PVC for this application ...

[Tim Lamb]

Paint?

>

[Tim Watts]

No - must be microporous stain - I find it so much easier to maintain - and it's what the window frames are done in.

[fred]

FWIW, ply would be my first choice too, IMV making a feature of soffits would be fussy, far better to be plain, they were meant just to blend in. That's for either paint or stain (I use microporous for both).

[Tim Watts]

Trust me, ply would look s**te. These soffits are about 3" above my head (it's a bungalow).

[Osprey]

oard - reputedly as rot resistant as cedar. But too expensive for a 300mm s= offit. Our soffit runs dry so I don't think we need anything fancy. All I s= ee down the yards, apart from exotics are regular "PAR" and "treated" which= is=20

I would use 6mm wbp ply=20

I did this... used a router to put slot into fasciaso fully supported along= one edge ... and a horizontal betten fixed to wall allowed ss nail fixing = fo rear edge.

[Tim Lamb]

Hmm.. I found Sadolin over pre-sealed window frames peels just like conventional paint.

OK elsewhere on bare wood.