sticking back fireplace tiles

[sm_jamieson]

My fireplace is made of tiles - stuck over a former which seems to be a mix of concrete and iron strengtheners. The tiles were originally stuck by bedding in some type of cement product that is very tough and I cannot remove it without damaging a lot more of the fireplace. So I need to "glue" back the loose tiles. The fireplace is not used much and will not need to withstand very much heat.

The glue needs to be very thin so the replaced tiles are not noticeably proud of the others - so probably not epoxy or contact adhesive, or tile adhesive.

So which glue to use ?

1. PVA - probably would work to some extent
2. PVA + SBR - a bit better than 2.
3. PVA and/or SBR + cement slurry
4. Gorilla glue - oozing edges might be a pain
5. Anything else ?

Simon.

[Ian Jackson]

In message , sm_jamieson writes

I understand that silicone sealant can be used (sparingly).

[newshound]

If it is staying cold I would go for "Sticks like sh*t" type stuff, which is a bit runnier than silicone so should squeeze down better.

[The Natural Philosopher]

epoxy is as thin as anything else and if set with a hair dryer or heat gun will stand temps up to around 150-200C

[sm_jamieson]

I am only used to araldite. Where can I find a more runny epoxy glue ? Simon.

[newshound]

Pop the tiles in the oven at about 100 C. Put a gloop of standard (not rapid) araldite near each corner and you will find it gets much more runny as it warms up. Apply.

Wear suitable gloves, obviously.

Or you can melt the mixed stuff in a spoon over a gas cooker or small gas torch, but you need to get the timing right because when it sets, it goes quickly. With practice, you get to recognise the signs.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Use araldite and a hair drier. It will be like runny hunny

Some people thin it with acetone

[Martin Brown]

What do you have against epoxy? The standard slow cure stuff will hold well enough on ceramics and works best with a very thin layer.

You want the original slow cure stuff - it goes quite runny and spreads very thinly shortly after mixing. 5 minute stuff no good for this - you need a decent working time with it and you may have to support any tiles which have gravity working to pull them off for a few hours.

You might want to put a spec of TiO2 pigment in to make it white (or buy the white version which is more expensive). The default clear/straw coloured stuff will be slightly visible in a fine crack otherwise.

[stuart noble]

I've always used Gripfil Original for that, indoors and out

[tabbypurr]

PVA has no gap filling ability, so unlikely to work. I learnt that the hard way. Epoxy is thin enough if you just dot it about, I don't know about its temperature resistance.

NT

[sm_jamieson]

ix of concrete and iron strengtheners.

that is very tough and I cannot remove it without damaging a lot more of t he fireplace. So I need to "glue" back the loose tiles.

roud of the others - so probably not epoxy or contact adhesive, or tile adh esive.

Well in the end I used gorilla glue (polyurethane glue), which I already ha d, and as you expect, had to keep pressing the 6 tiles back down as it expa nded, since 2 food cans on each tile did not hold them down enough. And a b it of oozing to scrape off, but the tiles are smooth so a sharp knife works fine. And it seems very solid. Not quite up to epoxy level, but should be fine. I'll remember to tips about epoxy for the future. Why do most shops (inc. toolstation and screwfix) only sell the rapid arald ite these days ?

Simon. Simon.

[sm_jamieson]

Also PVA needs at least one porous surface or it never dries out. Simon.