I have used the push type on lighting circuits here - since the load is not that high, and the convenience counts for a lot when working through small holes in ceilings while up ladders etc.
I was also wondering how much the enclosure counts for keeping the joint corrosion free - the push fit terminal housing is a far more protected environment than that provided by a bit of chock block.
On a lighting circuit you can stick 2x 1.5 and 3x 1.0 mm T&E into each end of a blue crimp IME.
Do you prefer to twist or stick in straight?
I must admit, I was never really sure if doing so was approved - but if the theory is "if it fits, stick it in" (oo-eerr)...
The Wago's would have something going in that they are easy to isolate a sub circuit if desired (because something's terminally blown up).
Straight (I never twist anyway - it just makes maintenance and testing harder)
Was that the lever version, or the push-in version? I've only used the former.
As I said the other week, I thought the lever version wouldn't pull out, but I tried it after you mentioned it and with *one hell* of a lot of force I did get it to pull out by hand. Having needed to do some crimps this week, I made a sacrificial blue crimp on some offcuts and fair enough by hand I couldn't pull it apart, two pairs of pliers managed it though - the corrugations inside the metal crimp tube ripped the surface off the copper ...
Given that I'll use the Wago lever version inside a wagobox, I don't think I'm worried about the mechanical strength.
Historically crimping was for stranded conductors. Solid wire crimping is always a bit suspect due to copper creep. Solid wire crimps in industry are very special animals IME and need special crimping tools and crimps.
Lever version. I wasn't aware they did a push-in version until this thread.
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