I have a blocked drain consisting of 2-3/16 inch plastic pipe which runs as the long leg of a T from sink in kitchen and AAV in cupboard, under the floor and out below the window of a second-floor flat to join a cast iron downpipe (which has a clearout but is about 35 feet above ground level).
After seeing the report about a 250 quid bill to clear a blocked drain, I'm thinking of cutting a slot in the plastic pipe to allow insertion of one of those spring drain unblockers (or a set of drain rods), but I'd like to get suitable 2-3/16" pipe fittings before I begin.
Googling hasn't shown me any pipe of that size at all. (Given it's age it would probably be imperial not 55 mm. metric).
Probably it is solvent weld, though I can't easily get at the T to make sure.
Does anyone know what this pipe might be called / who makes it / where to get fittings for it?
The pipe size you mention is consistent with 50mm solvent weld, available from any plumbers' merchant.
Alternatively if you have a branch of Toolstation or Screwfix nearby then they will be available there too, eg:
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Note that although they only mention 10pce packs of pipe on the Toolstation site, you can by singles at the trade counter.
Solvent weld fittings will be obvious by their lack of bulges or other adornments eg:
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You wont be able to break any of the old solvent weld joints on the old pipework, you will need to cut them out and re-make.
Non-solvent weld pipe is obvious by its slightly different diameter, jointing between two dissimilar materials requiring the use of universal (compression) couplers, eg:
Solvent weld- Glue Push fit- O rings Compression- threaded nuts and rubber olives.
These latter fit just about anything.
The first two are often not even interchangeable within different makes even if the same sort.
The normal way to make rodding eyes/clearout points is to substitute tees for elbows. There are threaded fittings you can buy to put in the extra hole you have created that can then be unscrewed for cleaning.
Or you can tip hot caustic soda/other drain cleaner down the sink every so often.
Tried, again and again. Didn't work. A small amount of water slowly seeps away over the course of several days, so the drain isn't totally and completely blocked.
That link doesn't seem to show anything which is 2-3/16 or 55mm or
50mm, for me at least. It did list 1-1/2 " BSP stuff, but presumably that is much smaller 'cos it could hardly be 1-1/2 ID and 50mm O.D.
The earlier link did show 50mm pipe, but not fittings.
I suppose I could ask in a plumber's merchant, but around here they tend not to be too keen on answering questions so I try to find out what to ask for beforehand.
The first link shows the solvent weld pipe you require, the second shows the solvent weld fittings and the third shows a range of universal compression fittings that can be used to make maintainable (dismantlable) joints.
I have already given you the answers but if you still have your doubts then ask to see a length of 50mm solvent weld pipe, as you have doubts about the dims, and they should oblige.
At a plumbers' merchant you will have a choice of ABS or mUPVC pipe and fittings (the plastic used in the manufacture). ABS is the cheaper, is thinner walled and is less preferred if used in a situation discharging large quantities of very hot water. mUPVC pipe is thicker walled, has a nicer glossy finish and can withstand extended discharge of boiling water just fine, it is approx 25% more expensive than ABS. Both however have the same external dimensions.
Ah, I didn't look closely enough at the TS offerings but glad you've found what you need. If you decide to cut the pipe out then they are the easy way to close it up again but the seal on those will never be as good as a solvent weld one. As an example, I would have concerns about using them in a boxed in situation but that is me.
Yep, you're effectively making an inspection hatch, very sensible. Watch out for the pipe fracturing as you are hacking it about. Maybe use a hole saw at the each end of the slot and then cut between to get a nice rounded end hole/slot or drill 6mm holes to create 4 rounded corners and then cut to join them up.
You could re-seal it again with a solvent welded patch using a pair of large jubilee clips to clamp it until set but why not simply seal the patch with a bit of rubber and clamp up with the jubilee clips. You can then open it up again easily to deal with future blockages.
You wont be able to use pushfit as the pipe sizes aren't compatible but you can use can use a straight compression coupler with the pipe stop pips knocked out.
Also, you cannot create a slip coupling with solvent weld (as it is a semi interference fit until wetted with solvent/cement) but I have made a repair joint by:
Taking a solvent weld straight coupler and cutting it lengthways allowing it to slip over the pipe to be repaired once pipe limiting pips have been broken out.
Closing up the coupler again leaves a small gap where it was cut (slightly larger than the cut due to the tight fit over the pipe). Measure the gap and cut another piece from a spare fitting to be used as a filler.
Also cut a patch from some solvent weld pipe that will be used over the filled gap for extra security.
Then assemble very quickly, gooping the inside of the fitting with solvent cement, add the gap filling piece, re-cement over this, add patch on top then clamp up with a pair of jubilee clips and leave in place once set.
This is a bit of a faff but I believe it creates a really tough repair joint and mine really did need to be well sealed and pressure proof.
I'm a little bothered by the idea also. 'Cos the owners of the flat below (and my insurers) would be unhappy about a leak, not that leaks from people *above* me seem to bother *them* very much :-(
Good tip; I hadn't thought of that.
I like that idea, but suspect that to do it right requires more familiarity with the materials used than I possess.
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