Solve the fitting of a back-box

Sep 20, 2025 Last reply: 9 months ago 12 Replies

One side plasterboard, the other a stud.



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Is there an easy way of solving this?



I have a multi-tool and can cut away par of the stud. I want to avoid any hard hits with a wood chisel or all the nails in the plasterboard will become evident.



The only way I can think off is to cut a wing off the plaster dry lining back-box somehow, and glue the remains of the side back in place. And to screw the bottom to the stud with a woodscrew.


Fredxx snipped-for-privacy@spam.invalid wrote in news:10amm4v$17rlg$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Yep, multitool should do it no bother, 2 horizontal cuts, 1 vertical then a

40mm offset blade will take care of removing the waste. No need to chisel.

V bodgy and seems unnecessary.

Undercutting the wood under the plasterboard will damage the plasterboard to fit the ear of the dry lining back-box. The wires were horizontally threaded through the stud. The removal of the stud to fit a metal back box is therefore difficult.

It worked, firmly in place and looks neat. I have no idea how this is bodgy?

Fredxx snipped-for-privacy@spam.invalid wrote in news:10an4vb$1bumb$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

I see your point, I had forgotten about the 'wings' (despite having encontered a similar situation myself).

I misunderstood your intent I thought you planned to cut away the corner of the backbox to achieve clearance rather than just the wing mod.

In your place I probably would have used a metal back box with a custom cut hole (AG/dremel) to accept the cable (although it did seem to be pretty free & clear at the rear).

Use a multi tool to cut away enough of the stud to sink a metal back box. Glue a suitably thick piece of wood to the back of the plasterboard skin of the other room and screw the box in place to that block.

Richard

+1.

Or even sink a metal back box to the right so that the left hand side of the box is flush against the wood, assuming that the holes in the back box line up with the existing hole in the wood (not forgetting the need for a grommet though).

Extend the ring with crimps or wago's as needed.

In hindsight a good solution, possibly using a deep box. The only issue would have been lining up the cable emerging through the stud with a knockout in a back box.

Thanks for the reply.

In hindsight, as per yours and Tricky Dicky's suggestion a metal back box would have been a way forward and perhaps a better solution. The only complications would have been some wooden stand-off on the non-stud side and the routing of cable.

Having had a second look at your photo you seem to have plenty of length in the cable and using a metal box you could use the side entry holes that would save you a little length rather than trying to come in through the rear.

If the worst came to the worst I would Wago the two cables together with an additional cable going into the back box the Wago box could then simply be suspended in the void.

Is that white stuff polystyrene? If so make sure it is not in contact with the PVC of the cables, this a major no, no due to leeching damaging the cables.

I thought that problem was no longer an issue?

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"It is stated by some manufacturers that modern PVC sheath compounds no longer react with expanded polystyrene".

Do you know how recent those cables are? Better safe than sorry.

Within the past few years. I feel enlightened from your post.

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