I recently renovated my kitchen and had gotten a counter depth fridge.
What I've noticed is that it does stick out a little and I noticed
that it's because the right angle plug is hitting the back of the
fridge. Apparantly, GE fails to inform you that the plug is 1+ inch
thick. Plus the outlet, even though it is installed corectly, does
stick out of the wall a little.
I was thinking of installing a recessed clock outlet so that the plug
is recessed to eliminate this problem. Has anyone done this before?
Typically counter depth refrigerators have a very small, very specific
location where the outlet MUST be installed, where this won't be an issue. A
clock outlet won't work with a right angle plug, the recessed area is to
small and the plug won't seat all the way into the outlet
Does your user/installation documentation say anything about wall
clearance for ventilation?
If not, go for it. I know the water line and valve for my icemaker is
in a recessed alcove behind the reefer. The outlet isn't but other than
the ventilation issue, I don't know why it can't be.
Here\'s some of my work:
Well first off, no where in the installation manual does it say where
to put the outlet. In fact the whole rear of the fridge is pretty much
flat. There is no recessed area for the outlet.
Also as a test, I unplugged the fridge and looped the cord out of the
way to test and see if indeed I would gain more room, and I didn't.
Apparantly it's not the plug. It's something else. I removed the anti-
tip bracket, and still no help. I think perhaps my wall is not level
( bows in towards the fridge at the bottom) and thats why it is
sticking out a little. So I guess I'll live with it.
Also to answer your question, GE recommends 1/8" on either side
clearance, 1/2" rear, and 1" top for ventilation on my particular
In hindsight that would have been a good idea, but I remember when I
was doing the rough electrical work, before I decided what fridge i
was going to buy, I went on several manufacturer's websites and looked
at the install manuals to get an idea where to mount the outlet, and
not one mentioned anything about a specific location or height.
Why not put the fridge somewhere else on the counter? That way you'll
have access to the other jack if this is a duplex box. You have my sympathy
since you tried to do it "right" by getting the specs but the manufacturer
has let you down and it's time for a plan B.
I can't. It has side panels, with a cabinet on top. It is enclosed.
That's why I was trying to get it as far back as possible to make it
look "built-in". On one side I am able to barely see with a flashlight
and it looked as if the plug was touching the back of the fridge. But
as I've said, when i took out the plug and tested it, the fridge still
did not go back, so it's not the plug. It sticks out about 1 1/4",
enough to see the side of the fridge, which is black. And my fridge is
stainless steel on the front.
Spray paint the offending black part with a can of 'Chinese Chrome'.
RustOleum, Krylon have a number of various levels of 'shiny' metallic
to match what you have. It should make the whole thing look much
How long does shiny paint stay shiny. I thought it turned to grey
after a year or so.
My wall bows in in the middle horizontally. I really never notice it
but I'm going to fix it anyhow when I replace the counter.
If the wall sticks out at the bottom, why not cut out that part of the
wall, and then put it back right. I'd be surprised if the 2x4's stick
out, but if worst comes to worst, you can plane or chisel them down,
then nail back the same piece of sheetrock. I think more likely the
somehow didn't get the sheet rock all the way back to the two x fours.
Maybe just cut out the bottom inch or half innch and pry out the nails
at the bottom foot or two and there will be room for the sheet rock to
stop bowing. Then nail it back to the studs. Or whatever seems right
when you look at it.
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