Oven conked out while cooking yesterday. Found 240V breaker tripped. Reset
it and tried again, Breaker tripped again. Now to figure out if problem is
in the breaker or the oven. I'm hoping the breaker.
Can't figure out how to tell which without replacing the breaker. I'm
afraid I'm not strong enough any more to pry that old breaker out of the
box so I'll have to call an expensive electrician.
Hoping breaker more likely to trip if worn out than oven to short circuit -
I'd think oven heating element would open up instead, but what do I know?
Guesses? Suggestions? I'd like to get my oven back at a reasonable cost,
Take a look at the heating elements. See if they are intact or have
broken / collapsed onto the floor of the oven.
Replacing heating elements is relatively simple and, if you do it
yourself, can be accomplished at a reasonable cost.
The problem is Donald Trump. The solution is impeachment or, the otherwise legal
removal, from office, of the greatest threat to peace the world has ever known.
Rare that a breaker goes bad under normal circumstances. I'd bet on the
oven. When you said you tried it again, did you mean you turned the
oven on and it tripped again? If so, that would make it an oven, not
Heating elements go bad on a regular basis. Sometimes they break, other
times they just short out. If you can get a good look at the element
you may even see the problem.
The element will only cost $20 to $30 and they are not difficult to
replace, but it may take more agility than you have. Figure about $100
for a service call if you go that route.
On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 10:38:53 AM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
Along those lines, does it trip with the oven off? If it trips
on oven bake, does it trip on broil?, etc. I'd agree the oven is
far more likely than the breaker.
Here is a recent crazy story of how easy it is to jump to wrong conclusions
and go down the wrong track. I have a 5 year old Kitchenaid side by side
fridge. One morning I opened it up and there was no light, the control
panel display was out, etc. Not good, right? So, first thing I did was
go check the breaker panel. There was a tripped breaker. Not good right?
So, I reset the breaker, it held. I go back upstairs, fridge is still dead.
VEry bad, right? So, I pull it out, then test the outlet for power.
There is power there. Next I pull the back cover off the fridge, go online
looking for schematics, etc. to figure out what could be wrong. No breaker
or anything in the fridge. So, I plug it in and start tracing the wires
measuring continuity from the end of the plug to points in the fridge,
everything seems OK. I plug the fridge back in and start probing for AC
at various points, first it's there, then it looked like it was gone,
but with a test probe, you're never sure if what you saw was because the
probe moved a bit etc.
To make a long story short, what it turned out to be was the receptacle
was bad. This fridge is counter depth, they use one of those flat style
plugs where the cord winds up perpendicular to and against the wall.
I've seen those before, but this one, the cable comes off it at a 45 deg
angle, so there is always torque on the plug. I have no doubt that
contributed to the failure.
So, the only remaining mystery is why did the breaker trip? I pondered
that for a day, couldn't come up with a good reason, except maybe if
it was going on and off, it could have gotten to an overload that way,
but these new fridges use so little power and have overload protection,
that didn't seem likely. Finally it dawned on me. I was doing some
work in a rarely used bathroom and had turned the breaker for that off
a couple weeks earlier. When I went looking for a tripped breaker,
I saw one open, figured it had to be the fridge and reset that one.
The fridge breaker had never tripped, it was just the bad receptacle.
But I was happy, cost of the repair was just a receptacle and a morning
of screwing around. Also very lucky that I caught it and fixed it
without losing the food in the fridge.
On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 2:14:36 PM UTC-4, KenK wrote:
If you're unsure if it's the oven or wiring, etc, I would not leave
the breaker on when no one is around. For example, it's possible there
is a fault in the wiring somewhere that could start a fire even with
the oven off.
I returned home from vacation to find that the refrigerator had failed.
Good news: It was winter. The furnace had failed too and none of the
food was bad.
Maybe the furnace failing was not such good news...but at least the
house was above freezing...but not by much!
On Wednesday, September 6, 2017 at 4:47:29 PM UTC-4, philo wrote:
I had the furnace go out when I was away on a snowboarding trip for
about a week ten years ago. It was my own fault, I had not replaced
the battery in the thermostat! IDK how long it was off, but I got
lucky too. It had apparently gotten close to freezing, I had one
line going into a toilet on an outside wall that had started to
leak at one of the compression fittings, flooding part of the bathroom
floor. But it wasn't too bad, no lasting damage. IDK if it actually
froze or if it just got cold enough that it affected the connection.
I didn't have to replace anything, just tightened it up.
You would think all thermostats would have a low temp failsafe
mechanical thermostatic switch in there to put it on if the temp
fell to below ~40. Some do, but mine didn't. I now have a
Honeywell VisionPro which has batteries and power from the furnace
too. If I was getting a new one, I'd go with one of those internet
capable ones, so you can check and/or adjust it remotely.
But I guess that comes with hacking possibilities too, would be
bad to find out the North Koreans turned it up to 120F on me.
I've looked at all your responses that show up here and never did see
the ? answered of whether the breaker will reset with the oven/burners
If so, they try oven and then broiler and report results.
Are the burner elements all functional -- if so, that actually answers
the first question.
There are just two connections to the element at the back of the oven
wall behind the mounting plate -- turn the breaker off and remove the
bake element and check continuity between the two leads when loose.
I've never had an element fail that actually wasn't obvious -- they make
a good arc welder for just a second generally, but they could open
without a catastrophic failure.
As Clare says, the particular oven/range would let us know the specific
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