shower tray spacer/filler strip

Reduce the width: a stud wall with cementitious "backer board" - hardiebacker. Also, a couple of things that you probably know ... tile down to the tray (don't tile first) and bed quadrant beading into the silicone to make a bomb-proof seal between the tray and tiles (it also reduces the visible area of silicone that can grow mould).

TimW snipped-for-privacy@nomailta.co.uk> wrote in news:1084tl8$earo$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Think again and make the 1500 fit, anything else will look s*it. Whether it is cutting into walls or trimming the tray, make it work for the 1500 and you wont be sorry.

Richard

Richard

So have I many years ago. The tiles then overlap nicely.

But the other suggestion to knock up a false wall that you can even put pipes behind - has a lot of merit too.

I did that in my kitchen when I had a wonky wall that wasn't quite square. Used MDF to make a true wall and ran cables behind it..

I'd suggest you put the shower controls on that wall, rather than under the head, if you can manage it. It's much nicer not having to put your arm under an ice cold stream of water in winter when you turn it on.

We have a fixed "rainfall" shower head, controls on the side wall, and it all runs fine from the pressure from the loft tank. It's a downstairs shower in an old cottage, so that's probably about 3m of head.

Andy

My thoughts too. If 'just' then apply a means of opening up the aperture. Remove plasterboard or chisel plaster.

Also before embarking on the project check how much wiggle room you have for the doors.

It would be so much easier than fitting a false wall. Pipes behind false walls are very nice until there's a problem.