Just wondering if anyone has bought anything from Shed Express
Colin Bird
Why not make your own for a fraction the cost, self-delivered today, better designed and longer lived.
NT
Seem to be much dearer than Argos, with whom delivery is said to be 14 days, for my particular size of interest.
DG
Hmm, I need a new shed.
The shiplap boarding on my 7x6 pent shed has shrunk and gaps have appeared between the planks. The roofing felt was replaced by a proper joiner 18 months ago and he just nailed it down with galvanised clout nails. The felt has pulled away from these leaving circular holes, the rain has got in and wet all my stuff including nasty garden chemicals.
It was stood on fenceposts laid down as bearers, but these are rotten now. Lifting the shed off them to replace them might strain the shed fatally.
Do you reckon It's worth attempting a DIY re-furb ?
A replacement from Argos is £298.00. Quality unknown.
DG
On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 19:38:40 +0100, Derek ^ wrote (in article ):
From the symptoms, I would dump it. It's throwing good money after bad.
There is quite a range of difference in quality between sheds in terms of the quality of timber and the frame construction.
If the Argos ones are anything like those in B&Q etc. (and they probably are) then they are flimsy rubbish built to a price point.
The best solution would be to make one. This can be accomplished very easily and speeded up considerably with a chop saw and some kind of nailer.
Second best solution would be to find a place that manufactures them locally and have a look. Generally, these are of better quality.
To avoid the problems that you have had with the current shed, I would suggest a number of measures.
- Use a concrete base or at the least lay some concrete paving slabs for the bearers or conceivably bed them on dug channels filled with gravel.
- Use good quality pressure treated fence posts as bearers. Typical DIY store ones are dipped only. If you cut them, dip the ends in a spirit based preservative for at least 24 hrs.
- Use strips of DPC material below and above the bearers to prevent migration of water.
- Treat the shed with a good quality spirit based preservative such as Cuprinol. The water based ones are generally useless and impart a colour like a kids paint box making the whole project look like s**te.
- For the roof, don't use cheap shed felt. For an extra £15 or so, you can get heavy duty felt which will last considerably longer.
- With correct laying and folding you can minimise exposed roofing nails.
- USing a bitumen based sealer under the felt will reduce or prevent any water ingress.
You can do some of these things to a purchased shed of course and improve it.
I think we can guess the quality, and it wont be good. You can diy something top quality for much less than that.
Anything can be refurbed, whether refurb or rebuild is better depends if its what you want, if the frame is solid enough to last, and the base sounds like it wont last forever. If you want something to last for life, rebuild. If you want the quickest repair for the next decade, thats somewhat quicker.
NT
Andy Hall brought next idea :
Agreed, plus you can save a considerable amount of money in the process and get just what _you_ want made to measure.
You might also consider using reclaimed wood, cut to your specifications. I use it quite frequently and have achieved some good results.
These tend to be much robustly made that the paper thin mass produced ones which need to be transported long distances. We bought two huts - bought one which proved to be too small, 5 years on we resold it for more than we paid and bought a much larger one. The local supplier made them from green timber over an inch thick for the cladding, it is still as good as new 20 years on.
A mass produced five year old hut we were given, is already falling apart.
What ever hut you buy, ensure it is built up clear of the ground on bricks/roof tiles or etc. so that it is not sat in moisture and has free air flow under it.
Thanks very much for taking the time to reply.
I think for the moment I'll waterproof the roof with 2 layers of Visqueen, which will give me time to thin out the contents of the shed.
Between now and next Spring I'll work towards building a shed which fits the exact space I have available.
The existing shed is on (treated) bearers on decorative flags. ISTM more isolation from the ground is indicated. I will incorporate that.
DG
On Sat, 24 Jun 2006 22:41:38 +0100, Derek ^ wrote (in article ):
You're very welcome.
You could do that. Another option is to just paint over the worst bits with some sealer or use the sealer to stick down the Visqueen.
One thing that you can do is to build it in section panels much as a commercial one is.
I needed to use this approach some years ago for a long thin shed to fit into a 1m gap. It's 5m long.
I made two floor sections and located them in place first. There is a removable section of floor panel covering the join which can be removed to gain access to the timber frames below. The sections could then be butted together and bolted.
The wall sections were constructed similarly and treated with Sadolin on the outside. The end wall was installed first followed by the sides. This could all be achieved from inside the shed.
Finally the roof frame went on followed by boards.
I also insulated below the floor and in the walls. The shed remains dry and reasonably warm all the year round.
That is key. Another one is not to extend the solid base too far out from the walls - maybe 50mm or so. Try to have earth or some other surface where possible. This reduces rain bouncing up and under the timbers.
If you don't have the time or inclination to make your own shed, I would certainly suggest looking at local suppliers first. When I was looking for a bog standard 7x5 shiplap clad shed a couple of years ago the big DIY "sheds" all wanted £270+ for a shed of unknown quality delivered 2-4 weeks later (and this excluded delivery charges). Went to a small local place (found in Yellow Pages) and got a good quality shed for £210 delivered the next day. It took two of us just over an hour to assemble the shed, plus about another hour for me to give it a coat of preservative.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.