Anyone know if it is possible have a lawnmover "cassette" sharpened? Or does it have to be replaced? It's an old mower I found abandond in the shed when we took over an allotment plot. I got it working ok (the carb. was gunged up solid!). But a new cassette must be expensive. I doubt this can be done on a workshop grindig wheel (even roughly would be better than totally blunt - which is what we have now. (Suffolk Punch 35L)
In 20 years of sorting grass Toro, Jacobson and the like cutting machinery I have never heard of a "Cassette".
If you mean the reel, which is the (usually) red cylindrical bladed device that rotates past the bottom blade/fixed knife then yes they can be re-ground.
The reel must be reground on a proper grinder for the purpose or a tool and cutter grinder.
The bottom knife blade is simple to sharpen using an ordinary medium cut/fine file. Remove the blade, mount in a vice and "Drawfile" the front edge at around 5 degrees rake away from the cutting edge. This give a little relief to the edge. It can be done "In Situ" but easier if on the bench in a vice. Can be cleaned properly too. When you have had the reel sharpened reassemble the lot and using a thin piece of paper adjust the "Fixed" bottom blade/knife so that it just grabs the paper between its edge and the reel. Thus giving *clearance* of the paper thickness. Recheck this at each end to make sure the bottom blade/knife is parallel. If it is set correctly the same piece of paper can be held vertically against he face of the bottom blade/knife and the reel gently turned to cut the paper. If the paper cuts all is well. If not and it is dragged between the reel and the knife then the clearance is a little too large or both are still blunt. Have a look at
Thanks for the information. Yes, my vast understanding of such mowers led me to use the term "cassette". Actually (and more truthfully) I simply heard the term used in several utube sites which trying to find out how to get the (ahem), reel, sharpened. I think maybe term cassette was being used in those mowers where the unit can be prelaced with eg a scarifier. However I'd appreciate a link/address etc to someplace that actually does the sharpening if you have one. Thanks.
Dave,
If your council has one, pop down to their Parks and Gardens depot and they should be able to give you the name of the contractor that does theirs - or if they have a machine on site, they may even do your for a small fee (or even free if they are in a good mood).
Cash
I would expect most tool shops with an agricultural bias will be able to do mower blade sharpening. In these part Earnest Doe are one such group:
They aren't THAT serious.
In message , dave writes
Mine has a cassette - Alco Balmoral. Yes they can be reground just like any normal cylinder mower. You can simply remove it and take it along to any service centre - avoids the need to take the whole mower.
I also have scarifier cassette. They're easy enough to exchange, seven screws in total so not exactly quick release. Without going and counting, I think mine has either 5 or seven blades. I know you can get a ten blade cassette for a finer quality cut
I have successfully sharpened a suffolk punch motor mower as follows. Buy a tin of valve grinding paste from a motor factors. Take the cover off the drive side of the mower. Smear grinding paste on the cylinder blades. Using a spanner, wind the cylinder blades backwards, adjusting the height of the blades above the bottom blade as necessary. Keep turning until the blades are sharp. Re-adjust the blades and test the sharpness with a strip of paper. Try it works a treat. DISCONNECT THE SPARK PLUG BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.
I have successfully sharpened a suffolk punch motor mower as follows. Buy a tin of valve grinding paste from a motor factors. Take the cover off the drive side of the mower. Smear grinding paste on the cylinder blades. Using a spanner, wind the cylinder blades backwards, adjusting the height of the blades above the bottom blade as necessary. Keep turning until the blades are sharp. Re-adjust the blades and test the sharpness with a strip of paper. Try it works a treat. DISCONNECT THE SPARK PLUG BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.
That's known as "Backlapping" and usually done with a drive unit to the end of the reel or reversing the rotation on a commercial mower. You missed out dressing the bottom blade front edge tho and readjusting..
By hand that takes eons to backlap if seriously blunt
In message , Nthkentman writes
Probably much easier to do with a cassette which can be removed from the machine
replying to chudford, Wendy wrote: Followed your directions to the letter. Spot on, and cutting like a dream now.:-)
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