Re: Audio cassette to mp3

Aug 21, 2019 Last reply: 6 years ago 8 Replies

If you have a decent deck, much better.



Obviously most pcs still have analogue inputs and outputs via 3.5mm jacks, get a phono to jack adaptor and use a bit of software like Audacity or Goldwave. If you do not intend to use the deck for other things equip yourself with a jewellers screwdriver, turn off all dolby and dbx etc, and adjust the head azimuth on each tape you play for max top and least phase jitter. Don't record in mono, use stereo unless one channel is far better than the other. If it is a dolby tape it may sound OK if you switch it on, but not always. After you have the final recordings, get the levels correct and then sample the noise on each and use the noise reduction system on the editor you like. I use Goldwave and play about with different settings based on the noise sample as a noiseprint. Often a setting can be found where you can balance the noise pumping against the watermarking effect that makes it sound like a mobile phone signal!


Then its up to you what you do with it. You can burn it to cd, you can divide into tracks for this, or you can make high bit rate mp3 files and write it to a data cd or DVD, remembering to finalise the disc or it won't play anywhere but the computer. Either way keep backups if its valuable.



Brian



crap mechanics crap software cheap price. Brian

Thanks for confirming what I said. Its really amazing how good some tapes can sound if you set things up correctly, as I say in my original reply azimuth is critical, but if its only dictation quality and has been recorded using dc bias or permanent magnet erase systems you are going to have to remove a lot of bass noise. Brian

Azimuth is lateral rotation about a vertical axis perpendicular to the direction of the tape movement.

Elevation is up/down rotation about a horizontal axis parallel to the tape direction.

Is the head also rotated about a horizontal axis perpendicular to the tape direction, or is the head assembly always made so the head gap is exactly perpendicular to the tape direction, without any movement being possible.

Is the head tracking (ie making sure that the head gap sits centrally over the track without scanning an adjacent track) covered by elevation adjustment, or is there a separate means of moving the head up and down, as a translation rather than a rotation, to adjust tracking?

I've sketched the three axes of adjustment - I wonder what the correct name is for the middle one.

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Apologies to Brian - I hope I've described in words well enough for you to be able understand... and to correct me if I'm wrong ;-)

I doubt whether many people would know how to adjust azimuth and elevation of the head. I remember seeing little adjustment screws, covered with blue paint to lock them at the manufacturer's settings, and thinking "do not tinker with this" ;-)

The problem is more compensating for variations in recording speed on an old, battery-powered tape recorder (or a mains one with crap regulation in the power supply), which needs the playback machine to be varied in sync (or more likely, some fancy pitch/speed shifting in sympathy with the variation in recording speed).

I recorded some music from the telly on my little cassette recorder, by putting the mike to the telly speaker. There is fairly prominent 10 kHz line-oscillator whistle (it was recorded from a 405-line telly) and also

*horrendous*, *obnoxious* wow which varies with loudness of the music - on every sound with a sudden attack, the pitch shifts up about a semitone as (presumably) the amplifier drew more current and the motor slowed down.

In theory I could use that 10 kHz pilot tone and adjust the pitch second by second to keep that constant. And I'm sure people who recover recordings that have been wiped by the broadcaster and who have to rely on an amateur recording would have a fancy bit of software to do that.

Presumably you only needed to adjust them when you were playing tapes that were recorded on a different deck with different head alignment.

In most reorders, you'll need to drill a small hole in the case exactly above the adjustment screw (when the Play button is pressed). Then use a small cross-head screwdriver, and tweak the screw it back and forth for best 'toppiness' on playback. It's usually best to do this when 'screwing in' (against the spring) than when screwing out.

I've never found that necessary. And decent deck permits access while playing. Usually it's done by sliding the door cover off. Less often it's done by inserting the tape behind the open door, the open door providing a usable gap under it. And on junk-fis you may have to just take part of the case off to access the azimuth screw.

NT

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