Self Levelling compound

None of it levels itself. It just smooths itself. Not the easiest job for a beginner

It is a difficult concept to get across when all the bags say "self leveling", but it doesn't. I have never understood how Advertising Standards have let them get away with it for years.

Bit like 'self assembly' furniture.

I'm no expert, but I've used this stuff (from Wickes) a few times recently and it seems to get easier each time. Of course, it's important to mix about the right amount for the area you're covering, although it doesn't seem to give the volume claimed on the pack (it seems to give me about half the depth per unit area they claim). I put the right (measured) amount of water for a bag into a small dustbin thingy that I have (about 3 times the size of a bucket), and get someone else to pour the bag of powder in while I stir it with a drill-powered mixer, then keep stirring until the mix is completely smooth (perhaps 3 - 5 minutes).

Then I pour it about a square metre at a time and push it around quickly to a rough level with a float, just to help it spread over the whole surface, but not to attempt to give a flat finish. Then I leave it for 24 hours to set.

It's never going to be completely flat and level but it's as good an approximation as you'll ever get in my opinion. My first few attempts were a disaster and I spent a lot of time sanding off the high points and filling the lows but, looking back, I think that was the result of getting the mix, and the mixing, wrong.

Good luck with your next go!

Well this time I will be doing the entire room all at once :)

Also the Wickes stuff I just applied, the B&Q stuff says to get PVA down and then apply the SLC when its tacky, I dont know if I can be bothered to do that tbh

YESSS!!

A very good one that :))

Hi Sammy,go to a builders yard for it next time. ;-)

IMHE Wickes Latex is OK but ANY non-latex is NOT.

Going by experience of (gypsum) plastering a wall, putting down one or

Dilute the first coat 50% to 75% with cold water and brush on: allow to dry for a few hours.

This will give quite a good barrier against moisture take up by the floor, giving you more time for trowelling.

Coat two should be diluted 50% & the compound applied when the PVA is touch dry. That will provide improved adhesion by the compound.

The self-levelling name is a misnomer. It is better described as self- smoothing.

Lastly if the floor is really uneven, do the job in 2 stages. Fill the worst valleys before a final overall coat.

In extreme cases (very, very rough or sloping floors) put screws into the floor & level off them with a spirit level so that you have an accurate guide. Remove screws & fill their holes when the screed is dry.

good luck

HTH

When dry

Note here are two that wickes do - one ordinary (about £8/bag) and a Latex one (about £15). The latter is certainly better.

To apply PVA quickly and easily, use a roller on a long pole and a roller bucket. You can cover a floor or ceiling in a couple of mins flat.

You can mix some sand with the SLC for deeper holes as well.

The OP implied she was using the "latex" version. I can't see where pva comes into the equation at all given that the supplied liquid is normally SBR, which is superior to pva as a sealer and waterproofer.

Whats gone wrong?

The second lot i put down was great, the first not so. I think it was too thick and didnt smooth out like it should.

I have generally found the latex one from Wickes ok. Not tried the other one though.

Its probably me John i would say, not the Wickes stuff. i guess it only as good as the person putting it down