Hello,
I wanted to put a small towel radiator (40cm by 70cm) on the wall but it's a plasterboard wall.
Would it be able to support the weight of the radiator plus water? If so, what fixing do you recommend?
Or will I have to open up the wall and add noggins etc? I was hoping not to.
Thanks.
Someone will lean on it. Locate the existing battens, screw a piece of 12 mm ply between them, paint the same colour as the wall, hang the rad on that.
wrote
I have both landing and bathroom rads on the crappest plasterboard walls imaginable (known as Paramount walls). They are little more than partitions with 1-1/2" timber supports at WIDE spacings. Even so, with the right fixings, radiators sit there quite happily fastened to the board not the timber. I would recommend the all metal plasterboard fixers. These need a 10mm hole drilling in the board and include a threaded nut at the "bottom". The fixing is inserted into the hole and the screw is tightened to lock the fixing in place. The screw can then be removed and the fixing stays put. Wouldn't attempt hanging a rad on these plastic type butterfly thingies mind.
May not be capable of withstanding strong person pulling hard on a towel that is reef knotted to the top of a towel rad!!!
HTH
Phil
Hello,
It's only a small towel rad I want to fix, so it should be much lighter than a "real" radiator.
I was thinking of using something like a metal hollow wall anchor, the screwfix code is 11143; I'm not saying I will use that particular size, but is this the kind of thing you were recommending?
Thanks.
those are not bad..however I generally find there is quite a lot of making good anyway, so I am of the 'cut out the board and put in a noggin' brigade myself..
They should do the job fine, I've had much heavier loads on these things with no problems.
For most plasterboard you'll probably need code 18266 which should grip boards between 6 and 13mm thick or 12229 for 8 to 16mm.
If you think you're likely to use many of these the setting tool (12429) is well worthwhile, If you use a screwdriver to set them they sometimes twist round making a mess of the plaster as you turn the screw to compress them but the setting tool gives a clean straight pull.
There's a man with no kids in the house...
David
Hi, I've got these ready but I've already tiles the wall I want to use them on. They've got spikes in their back to pierce the plaster. In an ideal world, should they go under the tile, or should can I put them through the tile and just cut the spikey bits off so they don't damage the tile?
Thanks.
Well, in an ideal world you need something more substantial beneath the plasterboard, like a batten, for the screws to bite into. But if you're intent on using these, then they would certainly be better being under the tile; if you want to put them on top then for sure cut the spike off. I don't know which depth of fitting you have but make sure that they are deep enough so that the expanding part doesn't open up within the actual plasterboard (instead of behind it), or even worse, within the tile.
Hopefully you have no air gaps in the adhesive between the tile and plasterboard, or you'll be highly likely to crack the tiles when you tighten up the screws.
David
I'd just bend the spikes back flat before using them, the metal is quite soft.
You'd have needed to allow for the thickness of the tile as well as the plasterboard when choosing what length fixing to use.
I wonder if there's any danger you might crack the tile as you compress the fitting. I imagine it's unlikely but if there is then I expect there would be less risk with the setting tool than by screwing it up to compress it.
Seconded - the other aspect is that the screw heads often seem to be made of cheese, so if you tighten by turning, you've got good odds of wrecking the head
John
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