Plasterboard fixings

[pm]

I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that come with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber noggings in which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at plasterboard fixings like these

I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm" I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the "8 -

16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

Also this fitting

"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What is the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete

[The Natural Philosopher]

I would say that your only safe option is to take a strip of plasterboard off and PUT in noggins.

Unless you have tiled the wall, in which case ordinary screws and rawlplugs will just be adequate.

As a long term dweller in stud work houses, you get very used to carving out a chunk of board with a Stanley knife, inserting bits of wood to the studs, and sticking the plasterboard back and re skimming, sanding and painting.

[woodglass]

Yes, your correct !.

But what is the "8 -

No, 8-16mm is the range of thicknesses of wall that the anchor can be used with

The diameter of hole required in the wall is 8mm.

(I used these anchors recently)

I think so !.

What is

No idea !.

[Stuart Noble]

I've always found this sort of thing quite adequate providing you get a nice clean hole the right size.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Certainly not for a towel rad which dogs bang into and small children regard as a climbing frame.

Think what would happen if it pulls off the wall and springs a leak..

[pm]

[The Natural Philosopher]

The real issue is the circumference of the hole in the plasterboard. Or in fact the one side of it that takes the weight

This usually exceeds the compression strength of the plasterboard, and the hole gradually enlarges as a result.

Tiling over locally increases the strength as the tile does the supporting, and the tile spreads the load to the board via the tile cement.. That works, as also does gluing a slab of wood OVER the plasterboard. But no fixing that relies on a cylinder of small diameter in plasterboard can take much weight.

[Frank Erskine]

I like this type:-

don't look awfully strong, but are very effective.

[Googlebot]

I tried fixing a towel rail to a plasterboard wall, it was hopeless. Put wooden noggins in or move it to a solid wall.

[pm]

The area is half tiled (the bottom half) and next year this will be coming off and the whole lot tiled. I can't locate any studs at all by tapping. It is a fairly narrow wall (only just wide enough for a 600mm towel rail) so perhaps the studs are right at the ends.

Opinion seems to be divided about the effectiveness of the plasterboard fittings. Seeing as it will be tiled next year I might give them a go. If it goes T/U you can say "I told you so!"

[pm]

Thanks Woodglass

[The Medway Handyman]

I prefer the metal version

[Frank Erskine]

at the Screwfix site :-)

[marvelus]

Like a door most of the weight is taken at the top so at least put in a noggin there where you now have access. You'll get away with the other fittings mentioned lower down.

If it falls off the wall you get a leak and maybe flood the place.

[pm]

OK, I've thought about the responses and after getting some hollow wall anchors and looking at their use I am now considering putting a nogging in as I am not comfortable with the wall anchors.

I've not put in noggings before so I would appreciate some advice.

The wall is 90cm wide, one end is 10cm masonry (I think - it is the edge of where a door used to be. All the original internal walls are masonry). 80cm is plasterboard. The other end is the architrave for the door.

I can't locate any studs by tapping, it all sounds the same to me except where the masonry is and perhaps 1" from the architrave. So assuming I have to cut out the whole width of the PB, what is the best technique? Drill through then use a wood saw/pad saw/jigsaw? The plasterboard is quite thick, about an inch (could be 2 x 12.5mm boards?)

How wide should the nogging be? How is the nogging fixed to the studs - nail or screw in at an angle?

Once the nogging is in, do I just plaster over after priming the wood or should I put the cut-out plasterboard back and fill the gaps?

Some of the answers will no doubt be findable with Google but if anyone has quick answers to these Q's it would be welcome. Also any tips/tricks/techniques would be handy

Thanks Pete

[The Natural Philosopher]

Best I found was a small seratted edge kitchen knofe - 'kitchen devil' IIRC

It really depends on how string you want it.

I like to cut a ply or MDF strip and attach to stubs of 1 1/2 x 1 battens screwed into the studs. Nailing on a skimmed wall usuallly 'starts' the nail- or screw- heads that were used to attach the plasterboard

Others simply nail diagonally into the studs, but I think if you can get a drill or screwdriver into the gaps between the studs, using battens as supports is better.

Put the plasterboard back but make it a little below the rest. That gives you an easy set of edges to skim to. I generally try and set the mounting plate/noggin back by about 2-3mm.

[pm]

Done as you suggested and so far (cutting + battens + some 18mm planed wood I had spare) has gone like a dream. Excellent tip about setting back a couple of mm.

Last Q: When putting the plasterboard back against the wood noggin is it best to screw, nail or Gripfill? There are 2 sheets of plasterboard back-to-back and they are not joined together, if this makes a difference.

Thanks again

Pete