That seems ideal - ticks all the box regarding being strong adhesive, (low) expansion etc. The manufacturer has confirmed in one of the questions that it sticks to foam face boards too.
Good to hear the successful outcome.
*foil* faced boards...
There is an easy way, screw some battens to the steel with self tappers and use plasterboard screws into that.
PVA loves foil, but isn't gap filling. I'd use something reasonably waterproof, that way come what may you won't have any additional problems. Anything waterproof really.
NT
carbide tipped is so much better than 'cobalt'
NT
:-)
Yes, will probably take that approach. If nothing else I'll learn something along the way.
Thanks for the tips - will be useful for future reference. I'll check out the cobalt drill bits at TS... The reviews sound good, apart from one notable review from someone who wasn't happy that he only got 3 holes through his 12mm steel beam. I'll take that as a good sign for my situation!
On 18/03/2019 23:18, Mathew Newton wrote: The reviews sound good, apart from one notable review from someone who wasn't happy that he only got 3 holes through his 12mm steel beam. I'll take that as a good sign for my situation!
Possible it would have helped if the tip of the drill bit was not running red hot :)
Cobalt is supposed to be cooled - impractical in most situations though.
Not for metal. I agree for masonry.
They recommend a cutting fluid, but (as with HSS) drilling steel without it is OK for a shallow hole, given the right combination of speed and pressure, and "touch".
Hand-drilling a 12 mm steel beam is not easy. In the trade they would use a drill press with a magnetic base, and almost certainly be applying cutting fluid by hand.
Can you not just screw it to the lintel?
But not 6mm! :-)
Plasterboard ?
I wouldn't do that as if the rest of the ext walls are insulated the reveals will become the coldest place = condensation, mould etc.
I also don't think plasterboard adhesive necessarily sticks well to the insulation of insulated plasterboards. Depends what the insulation is faced with ? Paper? Foil? Foam?
Plasterboard... to be plastered.... Now how big are the heads? & How much stands proud of the board / ?roof sheet" after installing?
When insulated plasterboards are stuck to interior walls the manufacturers guidance was - ok fine but put at least two long "frame fixings" through the top 1/3rd of each 8 ft board to restrain them in the event of a fire
I would be doing something similar in your situation. Screws into the lintel sounds good to me plus foam if you like but brace it well whilst it cures or it will bend the insulation &/ or plasterboard whether it's "low" expansion or not...
DAMHIKT
I'd rather fill the resulting voids with insulation...
by not having the voids in the first place!
If screwing to the lintel why add something else into the mix?
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