Hello,
While flicking through the channels on the tv last night, I saw an advert for Screwfix, that talked about L.A.P. products. Is LAP a Screwfix own-brand or is it a brand it its own right?
I see SF sell LAP light bulbs and also LAP light fittings.
Here's just a couple of examples:
Are LAP products any good or are they a budget brand?
Thanks, Stephen.
JFGI
Not the same LAP? The LAP in the link is ex Lucas doing car stuff. The Screwfix LAP stuff is not the same range. Not even the same company logo.
Apart from the "man and dog mark-up merchants" on Amazon, everyone selling LAP branded items (B&Q, Tradepoint, EXP Lighting) seems to be a division of Kingfisher ...
In message , News writes
Searching the web for some LAP instructions
For this, as it happens:
Gives an address of Powersmith Ltd BA22 8RT, which is the same postcode as Screwfix Head Office.......
The only places selling the stuff (other than random Ebay sellers) seems to be Kingfisher group Companies. so yes, basically an own brand.
The stuff I've used is ok, nothing special, I wouldn't bother with things like sockets etc. though. Cheap stuff isn't worth it for that sort of thing.
It's a budget brand.
And they own the trademarks:
Interestingly, in 2013 they seemingly wanted to branch out into 'Automatic Vending Machines' (but had their application opposed):
Mathew
I assumed they had something to do with lap dancing!
replying to Stephen, Justin wrote: Lap unswitched double plug socket in SLATE with double USB outlets Worked for six (6) months then STOPPED working. NOW 02.08.2017 Double plug socket in SLATE is proving faulty with an intermittent RH switch. I have fifteen(15) others so I'm crossing my fingers. I usually buy MK sockets ONLY, but MK did/do not manufacture in SLATE. BEWARE LAP luxury could prove a LAP financial LOSS
replying to Stephen, Rob wrote: What outside cable should I buy for A LAP Slimline 1435p flodlight sorry to hijack this posts I can not find my answer anywhere snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com kind Regards please help
Assuming it's a mains one, 1 square mm T&E. But if you don't know that you proably need to learn other things too re wiring it up.
Sticking your email addy all over the web isn't the smartest.
NT
It depends on where its being installed, and where the power for it is coming from. On an outside wall with power being fed through a hole from the other side, normal twin and earth cable should be ok. If you need a long run of surface wiring that is going to be in a more vulnerable position, then you may want to consider using conduit, or a more robust cable.
Also depending on how the cable entry is designed on the lamp, you may find it favours a round flex rather than a flat cable. If this is the case then using s suitable junction box close to the lamp to allow you to transition to flex might be worthwhile.
Some options:
I was given some 1 sq mm T&E by a 'contact'. I see it is rated 16A so could be used to charge an electric car let alone power a light.
replying to Stephen, Stephen Blakemore wrote: I bought a L A P L E D sensor light from Screwfix last week and having sensor problems. Took the light back to Screwfix thinking that the sensor was faulty, only to find that the replacement light is doing exactly the same thing. Set the light up in my garage and 10 minutes later when i open my garage door, the light is on????? Any ideas?????? Followed all the instructions. Such a shame because the light is perfect for what i want it for, if i could only get the sensor to work properly.
The post you are replying to is years old!
i) these type of lights usually have a timer - are you sure that you have set the timer for less than 10 minutes.
ii) these type of lights often have a manual override so that you can permanently switch them on. This function is often selected by removing the power and then re-instating it within 15 seconds. To get back to auto mode switch off the power for a couple of minutes and then switch back on.
iii) are you sure that when you open the garage door that the PIR isn't seeing a change in heat and triggering the light on?
I bought one of these Screwfix LEDs too. I took it back because the light r andomly came on at night and sometimes stayed on. Changed it for the one wi thout PIR and fitted separate PIR from Toolstation. No further problems, an d detection better as PIR is mounted lower down.
John
PIRs are very touchy things. I had a portable one to act as an alarm/ beacon and it seemed to go off for no apparent reason at all. As I recall they work by comparing the infra red received in a kind of striped group of sensors, so presumably if, for example there is a draft and something hotter or colder moves so its intermittently being seen by different parts, then it sets the thing off. Brian
The cheap ones only have one sensor. They have a Fresnel lens that creates beams(1) with gaps between across the field of view. As the target moves across the beams the sensor detects the rise and fall. They count the pulses and set the alarm if a certain count is reached in a set time. Better ones can have the pulse count and/or time period changed, some are fixed. More modern units have more than one sensor such as microwave + PIR and both need to trigger for an alarm.
1: I know they aren't really beams tim but its an easy way to describe them.replying to Chris French, jim wrote: LAP are awful, i have just bought a 5 pack of wall sockets, paid a spark to fit
3 of them, sine fitting (2 days ago) 2 of the 3 sockets turn themselves on by themselves??? They are absolute Sh**e...replying to dennis, charlie46 wrote: Sorry to hijack this forum but I installed a set of 10 LAP LED deck lights a couple of years ago and they have now failed. The lamps are OK and work individually when each in turn is connected to the transformer but none of them work when connected via the 10-way junction box, so I guess it must be a problem in the junction box. Anyone know where I can buy a new junction box? If I can get one what spec of cable should I use from the transformer to the junction box
- it is running 10 x 0.05W lamps?
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