Did a bunch of routing, rounding over for safe handling, but the results we
re a bit mixed. Routers are one tool I seldom use, so am something of a beg
inner with them. I thought round would look better than planed corners for
once. What happened was inconsistency of cut depth, sometimes too deep some
times too shallow. The wood was uneven in places, and controlling router an
gle consistently was just not doable on the 34mm wide timber edge. The cutt
ing bit didn't move in depth and the router was locked so it didn't shift i
n depth either. Any tips?
I used the 1/4" plunge router, a modern one with plenty of visibility round
the bit. The 1/4" round was all done in one pass. The aim was safe handlin
g rather than fancy finish, so came out adequately, but had I wanted someth
ing decent I'd be saying oops.
If you are using an edging tool with a bearing then unless the edge is perf
ectly square and straight the finish will be variable. Also using the fence
to guide it particularly if close up to the tool can result in a poor fini
sh, I never use the fence preferring to clamp a guide to the work and run t
he router along. One major cause of poor finish is too deep a cut, the reco
mmended max. per pass on my 2100W machine is 10mm and you should not be fig
hting the machine, if you can hear it slowing then you are asking too much
of it. Finally the quality of cutter is important as someone has already po
inted out and wherever possible use the largest diam. shank tool your machi
ne is capable of.
On Friday, 19 February 2016 17:13:51 UTC, Tricky Dicky wrote:
rfectly square and straight the finish will be variable.
Yes. There's no way round that. And it was neither. Nor was the top surface
of it at a consistent level, that was the biggest issue.
result in a poor finish, I never use the fence preferring to clamp a guide
to the work and run the router along. One major cause of poor finish is to
o deep a cut, the recommended max. per pass on my 2100W machine is 10mm and
you should not be fighting the machine, if you can hear it slowing then yo
u are asking too much of it. Finally the quality of cutter is important as
someone has already pointed out and wherever possible use the largest diam.
shank tool your machine is capable of.
Quality of finish wasn't a problem.
Using a router table was unworkable, the assemblies were over 6' long.
The problem mainly stems from the inability to feel when the tool is seated
flat on the surface of the wood. With bigger wood it sits, on 34mm it just
wandered about. I'm not seeing a solution short of clamping lots of strips
of wood on before routing it, which would have taken too long.
But I have seen people zip round wood with a hand held router, how come the
y got a nice even finish?
Not an expert by any means, but was it a good quality tipped cutting tool?
And did you take it gently, so the cutter 'did the work' You'd know if the
router slowed down a lot. With a low powered one, you may need to make
several passes, increasing the depth of the cut each time.
Along the grain, you should be able to get a near perfect moulding.
*If you think nobody cares about you, try missing a couple of payments *
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
On 19/02/2016 14:43, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Gang up some other bits of wood beside the one you are working on so you
make a wider platform to run the router one. Its when you let it tip on
the edge you get the inconsistent results.
Alternatively screw a wider base plate to the router so you can have
much more overhanging the flat surface away from the edge. (or stick it
in a router table / clamp it in a vice)
On Saturday, 20 February 2016 02:31:22 UTC, John Rumm wrote:
I thought of that, but with wood that's uneven in places & not perfectly st
raight that didn't seem workable
but there's nothing level to sit it on. I think it's just an inherent situa
tion with routers that they won't give a passably consistent cut with timbe
r that's not even. Maybe a 45 degree straight edge cutter would be better s
uited to such situations than a small roundover. Or maybe a 2nd pass would
I think small base plate routers will tend to follow surface imperfections in the wood worse than a larger baseplate. Can you not attach material with a smoother surface on top of your lengths and simply set the cutter deeper?
But those obviously teeter on the highest of the uneven spots and that is
If you don't have an even plane for the base to run on, you're fucked before
The obvious fix is to have something that is even for the router base to run
in your situation to the side of what you are doing the edge on and a little
than the highest point of what you are doing the edge of. Very easy to do
with some scrap
a bit longer than what you are doing the edge on.
On 20/02/2016 03:36, email@example.com wrote:
If you are using bearing guided cutters, then you are always going to
have a hard time if what you are routing is not at least consistent in
finish. All the bearing can do is copy the existing profile to the new one.
The closest you will get is to add an ancillary guide to follow instead
of the edge (bit like a sawboard). You will then get an edge that is
straight and true, but the amount of roundover will vary due to the wood
itself moving closer to and further away from the "right" position as
As an intermediate option you could used the fence, and screw a longer
bit of wood to it. Then it will still ride the imperfect edge, and
follow it - but not as closely. You will end up with a cut that is
somewhere between straight, and following every imperfection.
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