I bought the Rocker aluminum plate (regular size). I am very happy
with it. Later I upgraded to the Rockler/Jessem Mast'r Lift. Same
size as the first plate, so it was a sweet upgrade. And I am very
happy with the Rockler/jessem Mast'r lift.
Woodpecker has the lifts, plates and patterns. The patterns run about $10
but you can make your own pattern and use a pattern bit to run around the
inside of your patten to finish trim the opening. Check MLCS for a free
routing manual but I don't think it covers this. Still, "free" anything is
good. Hylton & Matlack wrote a good text, "Woodworking with the Router" and
that's a good text to have on hand.
I haven't tried this one yet, but it looks interesting:
I'll probably try it soon, since my router has been sticking up through a 2"
hole in a particle board top for about 15 years and it's time to move up..
I'm figuring that it must be pretty simple since they offer to provide a new
base plate if you follow instructions and still screw it up... YMWV
Please remove splinters before emailing
I have this one and like it. Pretty easy to do - instructions were
clear and the jig was easy to use. Just make sure to keep the groove
it sits in clean and the registration screw and rubber gasket tight -
mine works loose. and has fallen out. Haven't lost it though.
I just bought a regular size Rockler aluminum plate, a 3 1/4 HP porter
cable router and a 4' x 2' melemine (sp?) shelf. What I did was built
a quick template out of plywood.
1: The aluminum plate was something like 11 x 8 (maybe 11 1/4 x 8,)
so I measured a router base I had from edge to the straight bit. It
was 3 inches, so I made my template a rectangle of 14x11. I clamped
the template to the shelf, then and cut out the out a ring that was a
smidge over 1/4 inch deep. 1/4 inch is the depth of the Rockler
plate. The ring was roughly 3/4 inch wide. Now I had the rabbit that
my plate would fit into, but the hole wasn't there yet.
2: I cut out four 3/4 inch plywood strips to fit inside the edges of
my template (to make the template a little smaller rectangle.) I
dropped the depth of my bit to go through the shelf material and cut
out the hole. I think 1/2 inch rabbit would have been perfect (see
3: Check the plate for fit into the rabbit. Where the corners were
routed out, a little more material gone than I needed. I used a 1/4"
straight router bit, a larger bit would probably route it out
perfectly. I don't think it will hinder anything as long as the plate
fits nice and tight.
4: I re-enforced the corners of the routed hole with some 3/4 inch oak
scraps. I felt that the particle board might not hold up the router
with plate over time. To change the bits I pull the router/plate out
of the table when necessary.
5: I cut a hole out of my workbench and put in it's place the shelf
(or what I now call my "router table top.")
6: The 3 1/4 HP router was a tight fit to the hole, so I had to trim
the edges of my router plate hole in a few spots with a jig saw. The
3/4 in groove was a little too much, but a 1/4 inch trim here and
there allowed the router to fit properly.
7: Route away!
The router plate doesn't seem to move at all with the weight of the
router and a workpiece pressing down on the plate but I might try to
do something to actually lock the plate into position. After writing
this, I am wondering if the router plate is usually screwed to the
table? There doesn't seem to be any way to do this with the Rockler
plate. I guess all will be good as long as the plate fits tightly
into the rabbit.
More info than asked for, but I hope this helps,
I had a router plate cut from solid surface counter top material and
wound up cutting four boards about 4" wide and making a frame that fit
it tightl. Then, with a top-bearing router bit, I cut the rabbit.
Then, I used a 3/4" bottom cutting carbide bit to cut out the rest of
the opening to the same depth. (I was using a Formica-laminated 1.25"
thick MDF Table top that I salvaged from a Subway Restaurant
renovation for the router table). Then, I used a spiral up cut carbide
5/16" bit and cirle cutter to remove a circle of material large enough
to allow the PC 690 to slip through. I do not believe I will need to
fasten the plate to the table, but may want to devise some adjusters
to allow leveling the plate with the table top surface.
WHAT I NEED NOW are three of those tracks one installs to hold the
fence and lock in accessories (hold downs, etc.) Anyone know where
they are cheap?
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.