I suppose it depends on why we use trunking in the first place?
When I started work (BT, electronics Eng) I was taught the idea of 'flexibility points', a long run being broken down into accessable replaceble sections with the joints easily accessable.
A similar thing we do with bigger trunking with access covers and plumbing with rodding eyes etc.
I suppose I could do what many folk seem to do (or have done) is scrape a line down the wall, hold the cables back and skim / paper over the top but would that be considered 'the right way to do it' ?
I have come across a pair of such wires as I removed the paper (some of the very thin skim was 'blowing off' in places) and I really don't like seeing it like that?
Maybe it's because I have come from more precise trades (electronics , microfilm / fiche support, PC's, model engineering etc) that some of the current building solutions seem so basic (ok, often no less functional) to me?
And I have never had to make a living from the other trades of course (which is probably a bigger component to why works seem so slapdah these days (see other threads here)).
Like I go on the flat (wet) roof to lave a peek at their new aircon units and retrieve a (the install Co) 1m spirit level, a handfull of nuts / bolts, an installlation manual ....
Or maybe this type of conduit was basically for external situations whereby it can repositiond easily in the future if needed ie most suited for factory and shops.
Is it that sorta flattened out bridge shape and so wouldn't you have to cut a 'wider' slot for it than say with oval (or is it just an arch with no side flanges if you know what I mean)?
Well to be fair it was in a 'flaped over' poly bag and taped to the side of the unit by one corner. How long it would have stayed there is another matter of course. The spirit level is fine and I'm keeping it warm for them .. ;-)
It is indeed .. like the lucky sod who must have found my Leatherman PST in the road after I'd used it to fit the spare clutch clutch cable I carry for when they snap. I *could* have let the AA do it but it only took me 10 mins and we were on our way .. one Leatherman lighter of course ;-(
Luckily I listened to 'her' for a change and found a new replacement on eBay for half what I paid for my old one ... took a while to break it in though ... ;-(
And if you're lucky and there aren't any snots of mortar and other crap getting in the way of pulling new cable through. If you want to be _sure_ that the cable is replaceable then stick to plan A and use conduit.
Did anyone answer Tim's original question about how to terminate PVC conduit to a metal box? You use a fitting called a "female adaptor" like these:
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or
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adaptor body push fits on the end of the conduit (& can be glued if necessary) and leaves an end with an M20 female thread. Then a 20 mm male bush (comes with the adaptor) is pushed through a box knock-out and screwed into the female part (if you'll pardon the expression). The bush does restrict the i/d of the conduit a bit, but 2 x 2.5 mm^2 T&E cables will go through OK (just).
On Fri, 20 Jan 2006 18:52:16 +0000,it is alleged that Andy Wade spake thusly in uk.d-i-y:
Sadly those are only available from TLC and the like for round conduit. It does seem to me that such a device (maybe even just pushfit) should exist for the oval 'conduit'
Hmmm .. now there's business oppertunity if ever I heard one! ;-)
16, 20, 25 to single, 32mm oval to twin box holes converter.
"Allows an easy transition between oval and round. no more stuck wires, no need for loose grommets. Simply snaps into metal box and oval pushes into convertor". ;-)
Give it five 5 years .. 2mil house in Barbados next to similar folk who earnt their fortunes from curtian rings or fridge safety catches. ;-)
Hmmmm, in my experience not so easily, as instead of straight run of smooth conduit, you have got rough uneven wall behind. And TBh, I find it easier to use the conduit than the capping, for one it needs fixing less, but then my old house had very hard mortar in places.
I find most 'simple jobs' are those that have been the best thought through or experienced before.
If I have had need to do something, the initial 'design' (in my head) often starts complicated, then get's refined as I think up simpler solutions.
I have rewired a few houses in my time (this one 30 years ago and friends / family etc) and have used / seen all the solutions that have been discussed so far.
I asked the question to make sure there wasn't some new rule that I needed to know about or some new 'clip fix' solution that "everyone uses" these days?
As usual the solutions range between 'what the trade can get away with' (cheapest / quickest) and mine (money / time less important than doing a permenant and flexible job) ;-)
To me, putting a cable in a trunking that would allow easy cable replacement makes as much sense as when we ran the new plastic water main in some waste pipe when we were about to build our extension on top of it. Ok, it took another 20 mins and cost another 2.50 but will be worth every second / penny should something go wrong in the future. ;-)
All the best ..
T i m
p.s. I hope to start the job today using 25mm oval and grommets in the boxes. The wall chaser is set for the best size above the oval and I have a clear (thick black) line maked to line up with the side of the guard. Henry has a load of new bags and I've checked that the nozzle fits into the chaser. Ear defenders, goggles, gloves and masks are standing by.
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