Hello all, Considering the extortionate prices quoted by roofing firms to replace a leaking valley and put in a couple of "Velux" type windows, I'm wondering if indeed this trade is a "Black art". I have a sneaking feeling that it in fact it is quite an easy thing to do (with the relevant tools, scaffolding etc,) would you agree? And, have you any tips or wrinkles you might impart to reassure me that I could do it myself? Some suggested reading matter or a descriptive website would also be of great interest too.
What type of roof covering is it, slate, Rosemary clay type tiles or concrete interlocking tiles. Plain tiles are the easiest to do, slate is more difficult and intricate.
To renew a Lead valley about 10' or metres long would be about £300. Velux roof lights depending on size and roof covering from £400 upwards each.
Considering the extortionate prices quoted by roofing firms
Thanks Keith, yes it is a slate roof and I've already got the windows from Wickes. It's just a matter of knowing the correct proceedures and tools needed to crack on! As I can do most things DIY:- Bricks, Plumbing, Plastering, Decorating, Joinery etc I'm sure I can knock this off given the nous.
Roof windows are doable from inside the roof space usually. Helps if you have a decent floor to work from obviously!
Just needs some care getting the first couple of tiles/slates off without sending them flying off the roof. (or making sure there is nothing parked under where they might land if you do).
Pretty much as you would imagine. Cut away sarking and tile batten so that you can pull some slates into the loft. Once you have an approximate hole you can take out any timbers that need to come out, and add stringers etc (only usually needed for windows that bridge two rafter spaces). Once this is done you gat poke your head out of the hole, tidy up the slates. Take the sash off the frame and fit the frame. Then fit the flashing kit, finally refit the sash.
Just make sure it's a nice day ! Did three in an old barn one November - learnt on the first, on the second one it snowed, on the third the rain started and melted the snow. It was not pleasant!
But memories are that it was pretty obvious to any one with a general background in joinery, etc. Even the slating was not difficult, but you will need a slater's axe for cutting the slates.
wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@q66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com... On 6 Jun, 09:50, "keith_765" wrote:
Considering the extortionate prices quoted by roofing firms
Tools Lead Dresser. Slate Rip, Tin Snips, Calk Line, 30mm or 40mm Copper Nails, Copper Staips and a Hammer, maybe a pair of Slate Cutters I'll try to direct you into how to renew a open cut lead valley in slate. First thing is a secure scaffolding or tower. Measure from the centre of the valley to the edge of the cut slates, both sides, write this measurement down. Starting at the top of the valley on the right hand side and take out two rows up a slate, working your way down take out two slates including all cuts wide in a diagonal direction parallel with the valley. the most important thing to remember is to number the cut slates as you take them off, this is done on the back of the slate cut with a wax crayon, calk will rub off, even if the slate cut is broken keep it and number it. stack theses slates and cuts in a pile with the highest number on top. Don't be tempted to start numbering the slates from the bottom up wards as there are cuts that can only be seen as you take them off. When this as been done, repeat on the left-hand side, you might have to take a couple of ridge of depending which side of the valley is handed.Remember you must number the cut slates as you take them as they must go back in the same order. The next step is to remove the old lead. This is usually nailed down the side and across the top with copper nail. When the old lead as been removed, with a small hand brush sweep all the dust and other muck of the valley boards and the exposed lath and rafters. check to see if there are any old nails sticking up in the valley boards and lath. The new lead should be the same width as the old, not less, not over lapping the sides of the valley boards. The new lead , code 4 or five, is bent down the length in the centre and each piece should not be more than 1.5 mtrs long. starting at the bottom, lay the first length of lead, centring it with the valley boards. make sure that the outside edges are over in to the gutter or inline with the bottom of the first row of slates below the valley. you should be able to see where the old lead came down to, .in the case of guttering the centre of the lead is cut away to the centre of the rainwater guttering to line up with the sides The lead is now nailed across the top with two rows of copper nails 2" or 50mm apart in a zig zag method. From the top of the first length measure down 6" or
150mm and with a nail scratch an small arrow as a marker for the over lap. Lay the next piece of lead as before and line up with the mark for the over lap, repeat until the top. At the top the lead is dressed over the ridge board onto the oppersite side or over the other side valley lead and is nail on the side 10mm in from the outter edge both sides about 4 or 5 nails . Next, that measurment you took from the centre of the valley, mark this on the right hand side top and bottom and strike a calk line from top to bottom, you are now ready to re place the slates, starting at the bottom with the highest number first. and line it up with the line and check if the old nail holes line up in the lath. You might have to take out other slates to get access to the nail holes in the slate cuts as up venture up. you may encounter a bouncey lath and cant get a nail in or a lath thats snapped off. Dont re nail more than 1" or 25mm in from the edge of the new lead. If you come across a broken cut, mark a fresh one using the bits as a pattern. This is only a guide it aint easy, there are lot of thing to know if its not straight forward. Pictures are better than words Keith (Nottm)
One thing I'll add as an amateur who's rebuilt a valley is take several photos of it before you start. I found them invaluable when relaying the tiles and thinking to myself "Now how on earth did that bit go before?" ;-)
In my case, the valley didn't run down to the corner because one of the roofs had a lower gutter line than the other, and I had to refer back to the photos to remember how the valley finished.
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