Roman blind mounting

Any notable gotchas screwing into plastic window frames?

Management have arranged a roman blind for my study because I reacted violently to the plastic Venetian shutters fitted elsewhere. I am required to attach a 20mmx20mm Velcro covered strip to the window header.

I assume the alternative will be skimmed plasterboard attached to the lintel.

Reply to
Tim Lamb
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coarse, single threaded screws work well, sometimes sold as "uPVC repair screws".

Reply to
Andy Burns

In message snipped-for-privacy@brightview.co.uk>, Jim K.. snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com writes

Hmm.. I suppose it starts 20mm clear... AFAIR the handles are tucked in beside the mullion.

Reply to
Tim Lamb

OK. I suppose I need to avoid anything that might rust.

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Stainless steel self-tappers, head to suit, work. I use them in place of stripped-out threads in uPVC (had to change some broken hinges here and next door; also fit exit hinges, and some of the threads just came out with the screws). I keep a selection bought from TS.

Reply to
PeterC

How heavy is this blind then? Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

That happens on my back door when its a bit windy and I forget to roll it up when the door is open. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

In message <q2ud42$k2t$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me, Brian Gaff snipped-for-privacy@blueyonder.co.uk> writes

Not huge, Brian.

They are usually lined, black out fabric with a weighted hem.

The idea is that they neatly fold horizontally as you pull on a draw string; locking in position at the window head. Latching and releasing is similar to the operation of a Venetian blind.

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Why not just screw up into the lintel in front of the window?

If it's velcro, you can get self adhesive velcro (which can be removed and the gum cleaned off) - would that be strong enough?

Other wise, if it's pure PVC, big short self tappers. But check - it might have a metal frame core (will do if it's dark PVC, optionally if it's white) - you can get a very solid fixing into that steel with a fairly find self tapper.

Reply to
Tim Watts

I've been looking more closely at the one already fitted in the farmhouse. Plastic brackets screwed into a timber header and spaced out from the window frame. I think I will try a discreet test hole. If I hit the lintel, I can drill through and still use the stainless self tappers. Proper folding seems to be an issue with these blinds and close contact with the window frame unlikely to help.

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

There's *probably* not metal behind the plastic, but there usually is in the case of doors. If there is, you can get a much stronger fixing by using a suitable self-tapping screw. If you need a stronger fixing into plastic than you can get from self tappers you might be better off with riv-nuts.

Reply to
newshound

The job is done! I drilled a trial hole and found what seemed like plastic or timber. Re-assured, I drilled 5 fixing holes through the Velcro coated blind header and used these to mark out. Number one hole seemed fine. 2,3,4, and 5 were skimmed plasterboard!

Oh well! It'll be my head it falls on:-)

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Blind catching on the handle(s)?

Reply to
Jim K..

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