Replacement windows

Feb 10, 2018 28 Replies

Not a DIY question, but you lot know stuff ...



We're thinking of having some windows replaced with uPVC and despite much Googling, I have some questions.



We're down to two local firms, one of whom uses Liniar 6-chamber extrusion based windows without steel reinforcement and the other Rehau 3-chamber extrusion with steel reinforcement. The Liniar windows have better thermal performance, but ...



Can a window without steel reinforcement meet BS7950 or "Secured by Design"? Our house is single storey, so security is of particular interest. The supplier's brochure doesn't mention it, so I'd suspect not.



I've done shed-loads of reading (and we've had uPVC replacement windows twice before) so we're 'au fait' with the common questions (*), which are all the zillions of websites I've looked at seem to answer, so ... is there anything obscure I should be thinking about?



(* Thermal performance, quality of uPVC, coated glass, locking systems, bump/snap proof locks (there are some doors, also), warranty, who the fitters are).


I have the Rehau steel reinforced frames and I'm quiet impressed with their overall strength. I've also seen a locksmith get into a uPVC front door without steel in 2 minutes using a lever to bend the frame.

So, me: steel every time.

To be honest, the glass is still the biggest heat leak factor, on area alone - the frames are minor.

That's kinda the decision I'm coming to, especially for the doors.

Also watch out if you have bay windows, too many horror stories about insufficient supporting of the top. Brian

By coincidence I had all the windows in a flat replaced with UPVC by a firm in Borehamwood recommended to me. They did a brilliant job.

I happened to be working there repairing some of the wooden doors when they did the work. I could tell by the men employed and the way that they behaved that they were professionals.

Everything was fitted tightly. None of the shoddy fitting and later filling with caulk. The quality of the materials is excellent and although the heating had packed up, the temperature difference was immediately noticeable. If you would like the name of the firm I would be happy to supply it without hesitation.

I used Crystal Windows for some DIY-fitted windows. They had a series of options that Ford would have been proud of and I used the cheapest. OK for 48.25 inch width but the 72.25 inch wide ones deflect too easily and need to be fitted with foaming pu adhesive along the top as well as the usual mechanical side fittings.

Windows with plastic inserts rather than metal deflect very easily, so go for metal inserts every time.

The modern way of fitting them is to use brick screws that are nominally 7.5 mm diam and use a

6.5 multi-purpose drill bit that goes right through the frame and the brick.

The gap is carefully filled with expanding foam to stop air leakage and the 6 mm gap around the frame and the brick opening is covered with quadrant or flat upvc mouldings that are superglued on, then a bead of clear silicon sealant used between the moulding and the brick.

This is how Anglian do it.

The area taken up by the frames. When our old steel frames were replaced with uPVC we noticed the difference in light, especially with the smaller windows. If I were after new windows now, I'd seriously consider aluminium frames. They seem to be pretty good nowadays; 25 years ago I wouldn't have touched them.

It is some time since we replaced our windows but the last time we looked, the difference in quality (including security) was huge and price wasn't always a guide. We opted for reinforced ones with a multi-point locking system, having seem someone have less substantial ones broken into with ease.

Also, if the brochures etc don't show the higher specs, chances are the products don't meet them.

We used a reputable local firm. They did a good job. Have fixed some minor problems since installation (eg a Eurolock failed) without fuss. We were happy to use them to do a porch later.

One tip. We have dark coloured frames outside - white discolours and the originals were dark- but white on the inside.

Speed...

Properly sized there won't be a 6 mm gap all round.

Aka "Bodgers R Us". Anglian is a franschise operation. When (not if) you have problems head office will just point you back at the franchise. It says something when they need to have have a full time team following the installation teams fixing the problems...

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Anglian didn't even make the long-list.

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Thank you, but that's too far away.

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Doesn't bother me. We've had 2 lots of uPVC replacement windows in previous houses. What does bother me is when people don't have dummy sashes in the non-opening windows so the sight-lines are all wrong. Like this;

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And this is supposedly an example of good workmanship!!!

Here's a better example;

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I've got >25 year old ali frames and whilst they only have a 4mm thermal break, they are actually pretty good. Modern ones with a better break and full thickness DG units (mine are 12mm IIRC) should be as good as uPVC...

In an ideal world... In reality, the effort required to ensure the cutout is uniform and perfectly square is not really worth the effort - and I found that, after the frame fixings, a cm of foam all around really makes the frame firm.

I do regard the plastic trim as a bodge though - all mine are plastered in after the fact :)

I'm undecided on that for the many Victorian terraces where the bay windows have narrow side lights. Equal sight lines result in narrow glass (and loss of light). Might be better with slimline, metal-reinforced uPVC or modern aluminium+thermal break but I haven't seen much of that.

That's this street. And all the replacement windows in PVC or ally look positively hideous. With some worse than others.

Not having equal sight-lines is one of the give-aways that stuff is uPVC double-glazing (not using the ovolo profile is another).

The problem with most uPVC double-glazing is that it looks like - double glazing. Equal sight-lines and ovolo eliminate most of that s***ty look.

It is a long time since I purchased UPVC windows but at the time many suppliers were using typical continental extrusions as used on inward opening window which mainland Europe favour. When reversed to make typical outward opening UK windows, the glazing beads were on the outside making them insecure in the extreme. We had quite a search to find a supplier who used glazing beads on the inside.

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They all do now.

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