I have an old extractor fan mounted in a large piece of ply for handling just this. Whenever I'm doing anything majorly dusty, I wedge it into an open window of the room and shut the doors. The negative pressure this creates means that the dust does not get anywhere else in the house. It really does work - I sanded an entire floor once, and not a spot of dust got into any of the other rooms.
-- JJ
Jason coughed up some electrons that declared:
Neat trick - you should put that in the Wiki :)
Cheers
Tim
"robert" wrote
Make sure the electrician is qualified to self certify in accordance with Part P! Your post suggests you are on top of things so you've probably got this covered and know that kitchen electrics represents work that is notifiable/subject to special consideration under Part P.
Phil
Yep and these days "bin" is not really singular but plural. If the sorting for recyling is easy it will be done, if it's not it won't or a is a chore rather than something that "just happens".
Tiles first down to just above the work top level. Tiled to a properly leveled(*) and height adjusted batten as suggested by "JDTQ2". Tiles after and you drop one making a dinge in your nice new work top or if the work top has any texture grout and/or adhesive will get on it.
Work top to tiles seal with a nice 3 or 4 mm gap to fill with silicone and the worktop snug to the wall behind the tiles will be better than a sealing strip. They look cheap and nasty to my eyes, "kitchen fitter can't use silicone and make a good job" what else can't they do properly...
It's much easier to first fit the wall unit brackets and trial fit the wall units. Then remove them to avoid hitting your head when fitting and working round the base units. Then tile the walls and under the edges of the wall units having previously marked their outlines with a wide maker pen. The final stage is hanging on the wall units which you know will fit and align pretty close as they have already been trail fitted.
Have a hot pipe capped off to w/machine and d/washer in case you need it later.
I assume a Myson Kickspace.
Top.
Also a direct hole to outside for the kitchen hob extractor. And a general extractor fan.
Have out of sight sockets adjacent, then you just plug in the worktop lights.
Silicone is the best using an appropriate finishing tool
To side-track, personally, I've got everything apart from glass reasonably organised, but that has to wait outside until I am making a trip near a skip.
I've tried various containers, but am still searching for something reasonably robust and OK in sunlight, that won't fill with water or rot, and is easy to put in the car boot.
I have realised that this sounds very much like a milk crate, but I don't want to nick it, and I guess buying a single one legitimately could be expensive.
Chris
RobertL coughed up some electrons that declared:
It's a good idea. It would be fun to have a couple of 6" chutes for glass and plastic or metal or whatever, direct to their bins. Compost would be nice - but the chute would get smelly quickly.
What I do now is have the recycling bins under a bins under a window and lob stuff straight into them.
Cheers
Tim
On outside walls strip off plaster and install foam insulation against the brick. Kingspan and Celotex do this with some refinished plaster. Some can be plastered direct. At least put foam insulation behind the worktops and wall units as it is hidden there and the area behind is quite large. It all adds up. The heat loss will be greatly reduced and fuel bills will drop. It is easy to do at this stage and well worth doing as the comfort conditions and fuel reduction is substantial. It is foolish not to really.
The heat loss would phenomenal
Well worth doing - I fitted some towel rails to lower cupboard doors in a narrow, small kitchen; checked that the doors would open before fastening the rails on, then found that the 5mm clearance on opening was only about
1mm on closing! Those hinges can be very underhand.
Good tip! I've got a 9", 3-speed, reversible one.
On my own, I find it easier to fit the base units first. Then lift the wall cabinet onto the base. And then it is a relatively short lift to get the cabinet into it position. And fairly easy to put something underneath to chock it in place while fixing.
I was thinking that - but are there any chute designs (or, more probably, chute terminal designs) that address this problem?
Doctor Drivel coughed up some electrons that declared:
Only through your ears ;->>>
I think we could assume there'd be hinged covers on them...
If so, don't forget the roomstat for it.
Chris
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.