Just finished installing a shower in an existing bathroom that previously had
only toilet & sink.
1-piece shower shell placed in corner against 2 existing sheet rock walls.
Added floor-to-ceiling stud wall on 3rd side of shower.
I've calked and screwed the shell to the 3 walls. Now I'm not sure what the
best way is to trim above the shell and along the front edges where it is
attached to the 2 side walls.
I've been considering furring out the walls above the shell (from the top of
the shell to the ceiling) and gluing some of that 1/8 inch panel stuff
(fiberglass?) that is used in commercial restrooms. Ideas?
Photos to follow.
All suggestions welcome.
Uh, you do know that lip is supposed to go <under> the sheetrock layer,
right? And mud up to the corner?
Anything you do at this point is going to look like a kludge, but there are
degrees of kludge. Like the other guy said, a row of tile, or maybe check
with local counter shop and see about some strips of granite or marble, or
even Corian solid-surface material, to trim it out. Ideally, you'd like to
get them with a kerf to cover the fiberglass lip, so they would sit square.
Install with adhesive, and seal edges with suitable caulk.
Actually I've worked in cities where it is code to have a 5/8 firewall
behind any enclosure. So the installation would go as Spartky has
started. Drywall then tub or shower surround. Then drywall or cement
board over. I have adopted this installation method as my own. I'll
never get busted for code - no matter where I'm working. & I don't see
anything bad about having an uninterupted firewall.
Read instructions b/4 installing, since you don't know what you're doing.
Man, I hate to say this, but your installation belongs here:
I know you aren't going to like either of these suggestions, but there
are 2 ways that I can think of to make this look right:
1 - Hard Core Fix: Remove the unit. Remove enough of the drywall on the
2 finished walls to allow you to install the unit correctly - the
flange should be attached to the studs. Assuming this unit is already
plumbed in, you will also have to re-plumb it. You'll also have to fir
out the new stud wall because the unit will no longer reach this wall
once it is set back against the studs. Once it is install correctly,
hire a plasterer to fill in around the flange. Don't try to fill it in
with drywall mud...it's guaranteed to crack if used in such a thick
Of course, this assumes that you did not use a bed of concrete under
the shower base. If you did, ignore this suggestion and consider
suggestion # 2.
2 - Soft Core Fix: Put a 1/4" layer of drywall over the exiting drywall
to cover the flange like it is supposed to be covered, Obviously you'll
need mud along the ceiling and in all the corners, but when it's done,
it'll look like it is supposed to. Of course, this assumes that
whatever is up against or attached to the long wall that we can't see
won't prevent the installation of another layer of drywall.
Paint the wall first, then rabbet the back side of the trim so it sits flat
over the shower flange, nail it up (careful not to nail through the shower
flange), and cover with a couple of coats of spar urethane.
Normally, you wouldn't want to use wood near a shower, but this should be
outside the majority of the wet areas. In any case, the cedar would hold up
better than the drywall in the area.
Installing trim would also let you remove and replace the shower stall
easily in the future if you needed to (let's hope that's not any time
Of course, you could paint the trim to match your room, or use a router to
create a decorative profile. Your choice.
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