Re: Electric fan oven just tripped the RCBO.

Have you tried resetting the breaker with the external cooker switch turned off? Just to ensure that it is the oven itself that is causing the trip.

It might be worth disconnecting the element - as even with it off, the neutral side may still be leaking to earth and tripping and RCD or RCBO.

I traced a similar fault on the neighbours old cooker. The grill would trip it. Turned out to be a not quite short - more a leak - in a heating element., These are wires in an insulating matrix in a copper tube. The insulating matrix breaks down or water gets inside and ... bang.

Replaced the grill element which was a faff but fixed the problem

The old element showed a few thousand ohms between element and copper tube.

All in all stripping it down finding the fault and reassembling it was a couple of days D-i-y days. Element was peanuts.

If it's £1000 range cooker I'd fix it. If its a £300 POS Curry's special offer I'd buy another POS.

It will definitely be fixable. Whether its worth a couple of days of your time is only a decision you can make

Not really. elements are the weak link. Temperature cycled.

Surprised at the price. The repair I did was only £25 or so

Whole new oven at £80 from Wallingford

Some of us remember your issue with the hungry Mouse:-)

From that it appears that your oven is a Samsung rebrand, and the element part number is DG47-00044A. I can find that for £69.99:

Yes, but it'll be a crap oven for £200. Although ovens are simpler than other appliances so maybe there are fewer ways cheap can be nasty?

This is just its cambelt service, which needs to be done at mid-life. Change the element and it should go on for years.

(not to say that other elements won't need doing at some point in the future)

Theo

Try eBay.

I've had an element fail (very common, and easy to replace) and also a fan. The fan was easy to replace, but the cause was that some heating "engineers" had managed to drill through a wall, through the back of the cooker and into one of the oven cavities while trying to install some pipework. Everything was fine until the RCD tripped while cooking the Xmas Turkey, presumably because the fan became upset at the heat and moisture - that's when I discovered the hole!

Suggestions: isolate the element and the fan, check that all is well, connect the fan, check that all is well, connect the element, check that all is well ... at some stage it won't be well and you will then know what to replace. (This assumes that you don't have the equipment to check the parts.)

My Elderley Mothers Oven did the same, she only decided to use when we visited for Christmas so it had months lying idle so the element absorbed moisture. I didn’t have tools or time on the visit to change the element so borrowed one of her heated cushions as sold occasionally in LIDL or ALDI and placed this in the oven on a middle heat setting and let it warm up the oven with door just opened a tad , left it all evening and overnight resetting the cushion timer as required. Next morning the oven worked fine so the element must have dried out. Another gentle heat source such as an incandescent 40- 60W bulb in a cage type lead lamp would do but they are getting rare now. In an almost enclosed oven space the heat buildup can be considerable , in fact if the oven has its own incandescent lamp built in which can be switched on independently leaving that on for a period may also do the job. GH

We used to use an industrial fluid heater, a helical stainless-steel tube embedded into a block of cast aluminium with an electric heater down the centre. They did exactly this. After a few months of sitting in stores, on first fitting they would fail the earth leakage test. After a few hours of running the heater the leakage would drop to effectively zero.

nib

Interesting. I was assuming that it was a Beko like many other rebranded Lamona kitchen devices.

The reviews from Which? aren't always accurate, but they list several Beko ovens as best buys, the cheapest at £199.

I sometimes struggle to see the added value of, say, a £999 oven over a £199 oven if you are not looking for specialised features like steam baking.

Cheers

Dave R

Theo <theom+ snipped-for-privacy@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote in news:loE* snipped-for-privacy@news.chiark.greenend.org.uk:

Claimed compatible replacement here for £9.44 (good old eSpares:):

Little bastard. I had ventilation grilles under the Aga and my ex kicked one in, and they crawled in that way.

I 3D printed a replacement and hot glued it in place, and no more mice. Just slugs

Well you get things that don't fall apart when touched. And fail immedialetly

Thanks for the link.

The generic one is 2200W and £9.44

The genuine Samsung one is 1800W and £113.61

I am not convinced about fitting a generic part with a different power rating.

Cheers

Dave R

Respectfully pointing out that I could work my way through 5 * £199 ovens before covering the cost of a £999 oven.

Each with a 2 year warranty.

Cheers

Dave R

I had a similar problem with an electric oven. It was quickly solved by heating the element with a blowtorch. Later examination showed longitudinal cracks in the element sheath which let water vapour in. The final solution was of course a new element. John

And how many valuable man hours do you waste getting the damn things replaced?

The oven doesn't care about your convictions. Juts fit the cheap part anyway.

David snipped-for-privacy@btinternet.com wrote in news:mdkevlF19a5U7 @mid.individual.net:

I understand your caution but feel it is not entirely justified. The switching elements in the Samsung oven will be equally capable of handling 7.8A (1800W) vs 10.4A (2400W) as they would not have been designed without sufficient headroom. Plus, as it is a thermostatically controlled oven the additional power and decreased ramp-up time will be handled comfortably by that mechanism.

Your choice of course but for the price difference of a tenner vs 100quid (or 300quid+ for an equivalent oven) I feel it is worth a punt and one I would take myself in the same position. I state that as a competent DIY- er and as a degree qual electrical engineer (not that a BSc quals anyone to make such choices).