On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 11:48:03 +0100, in uk.d-i-y Tony Bryer strung together this:
Although not really critical for sinks as the edge of the cut is covered by the return edge of the sink. Still a useful blade to have in the collection though.
On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 19:43:35 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "G&M" strung together this:
Every sink I've ever fitted has had adjustable fixings. Although they've been as much use whether there was a fixing there or not. A bead of silicone all the way round is usually a good backup.
Based on advice from here, I sought out a *downward cutting* jigsaw blade of 75mm length. Easily available from the sheds. Mark the worktop from the top and cut from the top protecting the surface of the worktop with masking tape or similar.
I cut 2 sink holes and a hob hole in around 15 minutes each. Did need a blade change after the 2 sinks though ...
Moral is, read UKDIY, measure twice and cut once .. :-)
Cheers,
Paul.
While I'm sure this is true, unfortunately, and from bitter experience, this doesn't apply to the cheap ones Wickes supply which I recently installed in the garage. Two of the clamps on one side have nothing to pull down on to even compress the silicone.
On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 17:39:19 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "G&M" strung together this:
There are ways around it, some would call it 'bodging' so I won't go into detail. An intuitive mind often helps! ;-)
Went there. Did it. But wouldn't recommend it if you can avoid it.
The usual reason for this is trying to steer back to the line with sideways pressure, like you would do with a panel saw. With a jigsaw this makes the blade bend. If you need to steer back to the line do it by gently twisting the saw in the right direction, and NO SIDE PRESSURE
Surely it's cut twice? The first being to cut out anything from the resident troll (you know who I mmean!), unless you have himm in your killfile.
;-)
MBQ
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