If the post needs to be removable.
If you want to make post replacement easier in the future.
If you have only got posts the height of the fence (i.e. not enough to
reach to the bottom of the required hole).
If you want to avoid digging more than the few inches for the concrete.
If you like the look of rusting orangey metal at the bottom of your fence
I built an arris rail fence in 1986 where the posts are
socketed in the metal spike version (no concrete - you hammer
them in). Neither the posts (which are untreated) nor the
metal has rotted/rusted away, and the fence it still rock
solid. Some neighbours who comcreted their wooden posts into
the ground are on their third set IIRC over the same period.
The trick is to keep the timber clear of the ground. It rots
at the air/ground boundary. Some metal post supports might
rust through, but I haven't seen any which have in decades.
Yes, but you'll have to smash that up and get it out in
order to replace the post in 8 years.
Doesn't seem to be any need, but the make I used 25 years ago
(Fensock) doesn't seem to exist anymore, and Metapost doesn't
look to be as well made.
If I was actually specifying a new fence now, I would
specify use of reinforced concrete repair spurs to be concreted
into the ground, and posts to be bolted to them above ground.
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Wew've some metposts in the garden - put in by previous owner, but from
what I know of the history of the garden, they are probably a good 20+
years old at least. They are still sound (if a bit rusty).
BTW, you can get galvanise Metposts, but don't see them around much it
The trick with concreting is to bring the concrete above the earth
level. Most people seem to dig the hole, insert post, fill with
concrete to below ground level and then infill again with soil. The air
ground boundary is always wet soil. I've always tapered the concrete up
the post to 1 inch above ground level. 4 inch Wooden posts erected this
way have lasted me 10years+.
However, the previous oak posts were at the end of their useful life at
nearly 60+years and these were just in soil - no concrete at all - the
bottom of the posts tapered outwards to hold them firmly in the ground.
I recently purchased a couple of "treated" fence posts (not for fencing)
and cut them down - the treatment was only skin deep and hadn't
penetrated the wood at all. I suspect that treatment applied to posts
purchased from the sheds would last, at best, a few days at the ground
Yes, I tapered mine up in a dome and pressed some small gravel into it to
make it blend in a bit.
I paid extra for pressure-treated fencing, raised the bottom of the post on
pebbles, treated the buried part yet again and, as there had been rotting
posts in some positions, liberally splashed anti-rot liquid in and around
the hole (it's a good weed killer!).
They no longer use arsenic and copper. I believe it's chromium now.
Still pretty nasty stuff.
You shouldn't burn old preserved timber. The arsenic gets into the
soil and henc into vegetables grown there.The smoke won't do you any
The preservatives are really nasty. If this is for an aviary project
your should get the all metal free-standing panels.
Nail pieces of thin metal on to the posts so the birds can't get at
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