Does the puller shown on the right in this Screwfix product look like it's suitable to remove the flywheel on an old Suffolk Punch 35S lawnmower engine?
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MM
- posted
7 years ago
Puller suitable for Suffolk Punch flywheel?
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- Vote on answer
- posted
7 years ago
Depends on whether it will get behind. The three legged type is another option.
*Some* flywheels use an extractor tool which screws into the (threaded) counterbore which the nut sits in. A bolt in this threaded sleeve then bears down on the crankshaft.- Vote on answer
- posted
7 years ago
As an aside, I remember when the equivalent genuine Picavant tool would have been £100 in modern money. You only got to use these at work!
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- posted
7 years ago
Hmm, don't think so.
If it looks like this
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then I would hazard a guess that once you've removed the recoil starter and pawl sub-assembly you might be able to screw bolts back into the two holes in the flywheel on either side of the central left hand thread nut (once you've removed it of course) through a short bar across the end of the crankshaft. This should "push" the flywheel off the crankshaft.
You could even re-use the pawl hub sub-assembly (part 123) with something to block the central hole packed behind it.
Tim
- Vote on answer
- posted
7 years ago
Ah yes, I was almost going to say that sometimes flywheels have threaded holes for simple extractor bolts, but I thought that was going to be too easy!
(Currently searching for my bit of scaffold pole to slip over the big stilson in an attempt to loosen a gate hinge adjustment nut. I know I shouldn't be using the stilson, but the big adjustable hasn't come back from loan).
- Vote on answer
- posted
7 years ago
When I was doing my Agricultural Engineers apprenticeship one of the first tools I made up was a dual purpose lawnmower flywheel puller.
A simple bit of steel plate with a "puller" hole in the centre into which a bolt and nut was loosely fitted (the pulling/pushing bolt) then a set of 3 holes for 3 hole flywheels and 2 holes for the likes of the flywheel pictured above.
If I remember sometimes you'd need to actually tap a thread into the flywheel holes if it hadn't been removed previously (obviously the same thread as the bolts on your tool) (M6 possibly) Then screw the puller bolts into the flywheel and wind the centre bolt out gently, not forgetting to gently tap around the edge of the flywheel to free it off as too much puller-pressure can strip out the threads you've just tapped into the flywheel.
Easy peasy. One thing NOT to do is try and lever the flywheel off as the fan vanes will crack off the back with very little pressure.
- Vote on answer
- posted
7 years ago
Exactly that, yes.
Trouble is, I don't have any short bar or equivalent. So I thought by the time I've gone to the hassle of locating a short, thick bar, or a longer strip of 10mm stock I can saw down, I might as well look for a suitable puller instead. There are numerous "universal" pullers for this type of small engine on eBay and on Amazon. some with several holes for the twin screws, others with elongated holes to adjust to the appropriate pitch. Some don't have a threaded centre screw to push against the crankshaft, but I think are intended to use two nuts on each of the two bolts. You screw the bolts into the holes in the flywheel, arranging the nuts either side of the bar. Then you unscrew all four nuts and this has the effect of pushing the flywheel off -- with a judicious tap on the end of the crankshaft to break the taper.
I did read on one of the mower websites that a 2p piece is exactly the right thickness.
MM