If you can't get it hot enough for the solder to flow all around it, a larger blowlamp? Some of the common ones you see in the sheds simply can't cope with the larger sizes of tube - or 'heavy' fittings.
I have an ancient camping gaz one which does struggle a bit with 28mm.
Is the female on the neutraliser a spigot that projects from it? Presumably 22mm internal, and then 22mm + 2 x wall thickness external?
Is the spigot long enough that you could get a universal transition fitting onto the *outside* of it? Those are compression, and can then take you to whatever pipe you need.
Another approach, could you screw a BSP taper male fitting into the 22mm spigot (you might need to tap the hole first - but if the material is soft, then you could probably manage without). Liberal application of LS-X on the taper fitting...
I've tried again and again to resolder a copper endfeed joint in a primary circuit, and no joy yet again. It's a 22mm street elbow that goes into a port on a Dunsley, so lots of copper to suck the heat away. The biggest problem is access. I can reach it, but no way can I see the far side of it without a mirror, and I can't use a mirror when soldering as I don't have 3 hands, and can't really tape it in place as the torch would shatter it.
If it would be good enough, would a stainless steel or aluminium mirror be OK?
Their diagram says "Dunsley neutralisers have nine 28mm connections", which would tend to agree with all systems I've seen having 28mm primaries. Is yours an old or non-standard one? maybe if it's old it's imperial rather than metric and you're not getting good capillary action?
Sounds like the fun I had on my first house when I removed the old Parkray back-boiler fire thing. 3/4" pipes ran up a channel in the chimney breast and I only had a "heat gun" which had served me well for every other joint in the house.
I ended up having to use a wipe of that LS-X on the rear blind side. It was an open vented system though so no system pressure as such.
Many years later I discovered MAP-Pro and active flux... Would have made my life so much easier if I'd known about both back then.
Two blow lamps?
Find someone with a Porta-Pack oxy-acetylene kit?
Good luck!
>
For this sort of problem, I always pretin both halves of the joint and use Bakers soldering fluid as the flux, twice, once before heating then a second application when the joint is hot. Before adding more solder. A heatproof shield cloth also helps to redirect heat.
Wilkinson is just a troll. I appreciate folk trying to help.
NT
How is asking him to do what he already did helping? How can anyone be that dopey? I reckon he's not t-total at all.
y circuit, and no joy yet again. It's a 22mm street elbow that goes into a port on a Dunsley, so lots of copper to suck the heat away. The biggest pro blem is access. I can reach it, but no way can I see the far side of it wit hout a mirror, and I can't use a mirror when soldering as I don't have 3 ha nds, and can't really tape it in place as the torch would shatter it. The o ther problem is just getting it hot enough. The latest attempt has resulted in pasty solder on the far side rather than free flowing. Yes, the joint w as completely disassembled and all cleaned & sanded for this latest go. FWI W the solder penetration in the original joint was 0%.
ot that I can see.
t isn't room, I can only just squeeze far enough in to reach it. They might perhaps get there from underneath, but that's where the molten solder fall s - and they'd need to be looking up all the time, so that won't work.
over and over again.
Update... the Dunsley looks like not a Dunsley. It retains some water in th e bottom which doesn't help. It has 24mm OD copper inlets. Screwsatan & Amb ay don't have any compression that fits. I've decided to cut the nondunsley out with pipes attached, solder it sitting on a cooking ring for extra hea t and rejoin the pipes.
Thanks to everyone for the ideas!
NT
The water might be your problem, actually.
In similar circumstances I've used a wet/dry vacuum cleaner with a bit of hose pipe attached to the vacuum cleaner tube. Poke the hose pipe down the tube and stuff a plastic carrier bag in the gap to form a seal.
That's a really strange size! Was there ever an Imperial 7/8" size. Not that it would help much, because there certainly isn't now.
To follow up my own post, a little more research exposes " 20 thread copper", thick walled (in your case 3/4" ID) copper pipe, originally intended to have a finer-than-BSP (twenty tpi) thread cut on it and screw into similarly sized brass fittings. Apparently particularly prevalent in the North. I presume you actually have some fittings to fit to it, you might not have much luck finding any.
And being 3mm thick it will conduct away heat much better than ordinary copper tube.
You must have missed an earlier post. It's an end feed socke for 22mm pipe, but sldering it has repeatedly proven unworkable so far. I'm waiting on parts at the mo.
At least I've learnt something from this. Hell definitely has plumbing.
NT
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