Plastering ceiling tips ?

I have replaced the plasterboard ceiling in my downstairs cloakroom, which is 1.25m x 1.6m. I want to skim the ceiling with a thin layer of thistle board finish or similar. I don't think a pro plasterer would be interested in a job this small. In the past I have done some plastering for repairs etc so I thought I would have a go myself. Does anyone have any pearls of wisdom as to the best way of doing this ? I've looked on google and it seems hard to find any links that don't sell a course or dvd ?

Thanks Tony

Reply to
Tonyb
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I find Artex easier to use. Stays workable for longer and is more forgiving for the amateur

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Yes, don't!

Stuarts comment about artex is valid, even if you loath the stuff. You don't have to make pretty patterns in it.

Reply to
ericp

You'll need a neck brace for the stiff neck and line up a good massage for the aching shoulders. Eye wash to clear all the drippings that will inevitably land in your face just as you turn back towards the job. You could try wearing goggles, but they'll just steam up and you won't be able to see what you're doing. Mix up double what you need because at least half of it will end up on the floor, then when you step down off the ladder you'll tread in it without realising until you notice all the footprints in the hallway carpet. Sorry to be a little cynical, I've got a similar job to do myself soon only mine's in a room a little larger than yours (approx 2.6m x 1.8m).

To be honest I can't really offer any pearls of wisdom, plastering a ceiling isn't that much different from a wall except it's a little more awkward as you'll be working overhead. When working from a ladder, I find it easier to put the plaster on in a long sweeping arc, move the ladder then repeat until it's completely covered. Never mix up too much at once, as the chances are it'll start to turn before you've used it all up. It always seems to take longer when doing a ceiling. When polishing the plaster, I use a little flower spray bottle which puts a fine mist of water onto the plaster, I've tried flicking the water on with a large brush, but it doesn't work as well for me.

Reply to
Kevin

Put it plaster side down if it's in one piece?

Reply to
Maria

That's what someone has done in our house previously - using thick lining paper, it looks really good when it's painted.

Reply to
Maria

On a small ceiling I'd also consider the ready mixed plasters in tubs. Much lighter than proper plaster, doesn't land on the floor with quite so much of a thud :-)

Reply to
Stuart Noble

I've recently done a couple of repairs in a local hotel using Wickes Ready Mixed Patching Plaster

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impressed with it. Bearing in mind I am to plastering what Eddie the Eagle is to ski jumping, the results were excellent.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

I've seen the sort of plaster for repairing holes, which is light, but it doesn't have a good surface finish. Artex surface finish is similar, and SWMBO hates artex patterns as well, which is partly why the old ceiling went !! What ready mixed products were you thinking of ?

Thanks Tony

Reply to
TonyB

Take your pick, they're all much of a muchness. Anything that says you can apply 20mm+ without sagging :-). The finish isn't as good because the particles are coarse compared to a real plaster

Reply to
Stuart Noble

Wickes were certainly cheapest for the stuff in tubs last time I looked.

Reply to
Stuart Noble

does it really need to be skimmed? If the plasterboard has been neatly fixed you could save yourself a day of muck and frustration by filling any gaps and screw heads, and going straight to emulsion...

LEo

Reply to
Leo

In article , Tonyb writes

Too late now but in your place I probably would have used taper edged board cut to have 2 tapered edges near the centre then tape and fill the join. Filling a tapered join is easy as you have the full thickness edges to rule to using a wide filling knife. Cut the board to avoid tapers at the wall join.

It's a shame your room was just over the width of a full size PB sheet. If you had put up a non tapered full side sheet and used a narrow fillet to fill the gap at the edge then you could have taped and filled over with a band jointing compound. With the join being near the edge, the extra thickness over the scrim tape wouldn't be noticeable where it might be in the middle.

No skim required for either of these options.

Reply to
fred

If it was aesthetically OK, put the pb central and finish the ceiling with Gyproc cove.

Reply to
Tony Bryer

I'd avoid it and use lining paper before painting to hide any imperfections.

Matt

Reply to
matthelliwell

Can you see the joins in the paper ?

Your other suggestion is not possible as the room is just 2" or so too wide for a standard single PB sheet, so there is a joint. Another OP suggested using cove to cover the gap around the edges and use a single sheet, but as we are tiling to the ceiling, we didn't really want to use it either... As all our ceilings have the dreaded artex, SWMBO wants us over time to skim all the ceilings, so maybe I will get this job done along with another ceiling to make it worth bothering with a professional....

Thanks for all the suggestions. Tony

Reply to
Tonyb

Nope, I used some stuff like this

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makes it much easier to get on the ceiling and put the joints accurately.

Matt

Reply to
matthelliwell

matthelliwell wibbled on Thursday 26 November 2009 11:06

I like the look of that.

Did you use any special glue to stick it straight to PB or just paste?

I'm thinking - you'd want it to be permanant and I've had problems with paste giving out with condensation, although I suspect the PB would buffer moisture.

Reply to
Tim W

Just normal wall paper paste: liberally paste ceiling so its easier to slide around and then the paper goes straight on without any fuss.

Matt

Reply to
matthelliwell

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